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Sussex beyond sparkling
Amy Wislocki
A recent tour of Sussex vineyards (look out for a travel guide in spring 2024) confirmed the dynamism that characterises the English wine industry right now – and the outstanding quality of the sparkling wines being produced. It also showed that the quality of English still wines has skyrocketed. These wines aren’t cheap, and many are made in very small quantities, but demonstrating just what is achievable is important in establishing the reputation of a still-young wine region.
One highlight: the still wines of Oastbrook, a relative newcomer to the scene, run by English husband and Brazilian wife Nick and America Brewer. Both studied at Plumpton College in rural East Sussex and do the winemaking themselves at their winery in the Rother valley, on the Sussex/Kent county border. They’ve been making wine since 2014 (winning an award for their still Chardonnay wine early on), but only planted their own vines in 2018. They are passionate about Alsace varieties for still wines, and the 2022 Pinot Blanc shows a purity of pear fruit, and white flowers. But what excited most was the 2022 Pinot Meunier – again, amazing purity of spicy red apple fruit. Both of these are sold out, but look out for the new releases in May 2024.
See Discover Sussex for further information.
Exploring Willamette Valley
Clive Pursehouse
The Eola-Amity Hills AVA is in the southern reaches of the Willamette Valley. Its reputation has been on the rise for a long time, with world-renowned producers crafting some of Oregon’s best wines from the sub-appellation’s volcanic soils and windy conditions. Ribbon Ridge AVA, found in the northern end of the Valley, nestles within the larger Chehalem Mountains AVA.
Nick Keeler of Authentique Cellars is making an array of wines from several of the Valley’s AVAs and his family’s Keeler Estate Vineyard – wines that are flying a bit under the radar at the moment. His work for Tonnellerie Allary (near Cognac in France) has informed his approach to winemaking, and he uses a variety of fermentation vessels to create wines of texture and balance. His Pinot Noirs are wines of great clarity, and the wines from both the cool 2019 vintage and the warmer 2016 show incredible freshness that complements perfectly the depth of fruit and savoury, umami character. His Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noirs from Ribbon Ridge (2021, US$50 stollerwinegroup.com) are a masterclass in freshness, with pine forest influence and bright berries. The wines from the Eola-Amity appellation show a fleshy depth of fruit and fantastic structure, balanced with the spicy minerality the AVA has become known for.
Malbec in Chile
Julie Sheppard
From left: Carlos Olivares and Patricio Celedón
Argentina may have claimed Malbec as its signature variety, but on the other side of the Andes the grape has found a home in Chile’s Colchagua Valley. Here Viu Manent was the first winery to bottle and label a Chilean Malbec, back in 1993. I celebrated this 30th anniversary last year with a visit to Viu Manent, which now also offers award-winning wine tourism and vineyard stays in the recently opened Vibo Wine Lodge.
A tasting with chief winemaker Patricio Celedo?n and oenologist Carlos Olivares began with a tour of the 150ha San Carlos vineyard in a horse-drawn carriage. With pre-phylloxera French rootstock on alluvial sandy-clay soil, first planted in the mid-19th century, it’s home to the centennial Malbec vines that make top wine Viu 1. ‘We follow the same logic as Malbec planted in Argentina,’ explains Celedo?n. ‘Soil with good drainage that we irrigate just once a year with flood irrigation to cover the whole root.’
The winery’s long experience with Malbec shows in the quality of Viu Manent’s wines. From the pure, vibrant aromatics of Gran Reserva Malbec 2022 to the terroir-driven Single Vineyard San Carlos Malbec (2021, £24.25 Great Grog). But the star (I…
[ad_2]Source : https://www.decanter.com/wine/editors-picks-february-2024-521330/
