Caroline Gilby MW with Rebula producers at the Brda – Home of Rebula event.
Twenty years ago, Rebula (known as Ribolla Gialla in Italy) was given little attention, even in its homeland: the hills of Brda (or Goris?ka Brda) and Collio that straddle the Slovenia-Italy border. Tastings of the area’s wines were all about Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Merlot, overshadowing this unsung native grape.
Over the past two decades, improvements in research, viticulture and winemaking have transformed Rebula into a wine that commands international attention. Now, new research is throwing light on the unique synergy between the area’s particular geology, the Rebula grape and the rolling vineyards of Brda and Collio.
The secret of the land
Brda and Collio form a single geological region, spreading across Italy and Slovenia. It’s a landscape of stunning green hills, clothed in terraced vineyards and forests buzzing with biodiversity. In theory, the region is too wet for good grapes, averaging over 1200mm of rain per year. But in vineyards high on these hillsides, Rebula is at its most exciting.
It is the area’s distinctive bedrock – known locally as opoka – that makes this possible, with its distinct layers of marl, sandstone and limestone. Opoka fractures easily, so rain drains away quickly, forcing the vines to root deeply. Combined with Alpine breezes that keep the air fresh, this means the vines struggle just enough to produce high-quality grapes.
The striking colour of the Rebula grape. Credit: Matic Grmek
Rebula under the microscope
Now, new research has corroborated what the region’s vinegrowers already understood. In the right growing conditions, a group of yellow and orange pigments called carotenoids accumulate in grape skins in response to sunshine.
Rebula grown on damp, low-lying soils remains green and vegetal; at moderate elevations it stays neutral and phenolic; but on sunny, well- drained slopes, like those in Brda and Collio, it turns a rich, golden yellow – thanks to carotenoids.
These pigments then metabolise into incredibly important flavour compounds, giving notes of quince, ripe apple, flowers and honey, plus interesting hints of kerosene, tea leaf and tobacco – all typical varietal characteristics giving complexity to top-quality Rebula from the hilly terroir of Brda and Collio.
The Rebula being made today is better than ever – more precise, more elegant and able to showcase both its special homeland and the vision of the passionate winemakers who produce it.
Rebula wines tasted at the 2024 Brda – Home of Rebula event
Jermann, Vinnae Ribolla Gialla, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2023 92pts
Available from Laithwaites, Petersham Cellar and others
A consistently bright, fresh, appetising wine with aromas of apple blossom, lemon and red apple. To taste, there is plenty of lively, juicy apple fruit, with hints of green melon, a sprinkling of fresh herbs and a refreshing zesty finish.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alc 12.5%
Medot, Rebula Journey, Goriška Brda, Slovenia 2023 90pts
Available from medot-wines.com
Aromas of Asian pear, honeydew melon and a touch of sweet spice, then a generously fruity palate with hints of nectarine, lemon and pink grapefruit pith. It’s a harmonious combination of two faces of Rebula: fresh and more complex.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alc 12.5%
Dolfo, Rumena Rebula, Goriška Brda, Slovenia 2023 89pts
Available from dolfo.eu
Typical mineral character of old-vine Rebula – bone dry, vibrant and crisp. Aromas of greengage, crunchy pear and lemon zest lead on the nose, followed by hints of meadow herbs, fresh lemon, pear juice and a lightly salty, mineral finish.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alc 12.5%
Edi Sim?i?, Fojana Rebula Sveti Duh Vineyard, Goriška Brda, Slovenia 2022 95pts
Available from slit-wines.com
The nose is refined, with hints of white peach, mirabelle, wild thyme and lemon oil. It has an ethereal structure that combines lightness and intensity, with super-elegant oak and notes of…
Source : https://www.decanter.com.master.public.keystone-prod-eks-euw1.futureplc.engineering/sponsored/brdas-rebula-a-cinderella-story-541907/
