A Los Angeles return: After a four-year hiatus, acclaimed restaurant Somni is reopening in West Hollywood, Calif. Somni (meaning “dream” in Catalan) was founded by chef Aitor Zabala and culinary leader and humanitarian José Andrés in 2018; despite being limited to just 10 guests each service, the restaurant rapidly grew in popularity. It also earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for its wine list in 2019 and 2020.
Challenges brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic led to Somni’s closure in late 2020. But, in an August Instagram post, Zabala announced that the restaurant would reopen under his sole ownership and with 14 seats at the main tasting counter.
“After four years of us working behind the scenes to bring this project back to life, we are excited to finally share our space and invite our guests to embark on a journey of new memories and meaningful experiences together,” Zabala told Wine Spectator via email.
When it reopens: December 2024
Wine list highlights: Wine director Caroline Costarella (who previously worked at 2024 Grand Award winner Lazy Bear in San Francisco) has built a 400-selection wine list that’s based primarily around California and Spain, with countries and regions like France, Italy and Oregon featured as well. The Rioja selection is notable, with selections from leading wineries like R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia, La Rioja Alta and Marques de Murrieta. Several lesser-known Spanish styles and regions, like Txakolina and the Canary Islands, are also represented. Meanwhile, the California section includes the likes of Dumol, Diamond Creek and Peter Michael. Wine and drink pairings are offered as part of the tasting-menu experience, though guests can opt for alternative wines by the glass or for beer. Alternatively, corkage is $150 per bottle, with a limit of two bottles per party.
[article-img-container][src=2024-10/restaurant-news-somni-cochinillo-enmolada-100324-1600.jpg] [credit= (Jill Paider)] [alt= A dish from Somni in Los Angeles featuring butternut squash, Mexican crema, huitlacoche and mole sauce][end: article-img-container]The dining experience: Zabala credits famed Spanish chef Ferran Adrià’s cookbook El Bulli: The Taste of the Mediterranean for his understanding that cooking can be an art form. This philosophy will be on full display at Somni, where the minimalist decor in the earth-toned dining room will encourage diners to focus, first and foremost, on the food. Guests will sit at two adjacent, crescent-shaped tables oriented toward a curved, cream-colored slab of marble, the final prep counter for Zabala’s dishes. Behind this counter, a window offers views into the kitchen, with the intention of blurring the lines between chef, server and diner. Dishes will be served on custom tableware that complements the elegant simplicity of the space. Long yet unobtrusive lights will hang above each diner’s plating area to spotlight dishes, as a museum does with works of art.
This culinary experience will cost $495 per person. For $995 per person, Zabala offers his tasting menu in a six-seat private dining room adjacent to the wine cellar. For both experiences, the meal will begin with small bites on the patio (weather allowing) before moving indoors. Vegetarians and others with dietary restrictions or preferences should note that the menu is fixed.—Greg Warner
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Source : https://www.winespectator.com/articles/somni-los-angeles-prelude-san-francisco-okta-closure