Iron Horse: Sparkling Pioneer of the Russian River Valley

Joy Sterling (credit: drwinkler)

Located 13 miles from the Pacific, this 300-acre estate (164 acres in vine today) was founded by Audrey and Barry Sterling in Green Valley in 1976.  They were pioneers of the Green Valley and played a key role in establishing it as an AVA within the Russian River Valley. Today, their daughter, Joy Sterling, who grew up in Paris, attended Yale, and was bureau chief at ABC News, is CEO of the winery.  In addition to making some of America’s most popular sparkling wines, Iron Horse is famous for being served at the 1985 summit meeting between President Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev in Geneva. Iron Horse has now been served at seven consecutive presidential administrations.  David Munksgard has been winemaker and chef de caves since 1996. All the Iron Horse sparkling wines are made from estate fruit grown in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley.

Iron Horse Vineyard, Green Valley (credit drwinkler)

The Wines

Iron Horse 2021 Classic Vintage Brut Russian River Valley ($58) 92 This is Iron Horse’s flagship wine. It’s clean, nicely balanced and has lovely fruit and brioche aromas and flavors.  A blend of 77% Chardonnay and 23% Pinot Noir with 3 years of lees aging.

Iron Horse 2019 Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs Russian River Valley ($62) 92 After spending 5 years on the lees, the Ocean Reserve has a notable leesy quality to it. Bright and sparkling on the attack, this is a nicely balanced Green Valley sparkler revealing firm minerality and a hint of lemon zest. Dosage 6.9 g/L. Disgorged April 2025. All profits go to the Ocean Conservancy.

Iron Horse 2021 Summer’s Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Russian River Valley ($75) 91 Opens with toasty lees and stone fruit notes on the nose. Bright and dry on the attack with a fine, very firm effervescence. Finishes with lingering chalkiness. 6.9 g/L dosage. Limited production of this sparkler and only available online or at the cellar door.

Iron Horse 2021 Brut X Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($62) 91  This Brut Nature (no sugar added) offers light orchard fruit aromas and flavors on a beautifully pure nose. It’s round and dry and mineral like on a bone-dry palate. A blend of 77% Chardonnay and 23% Pinot Noir.

Iron Horse 2021 Russian River Cuvée Russian River Valley ($58) 91 The Russian River Cuvée is made of the same base wine as the Brut X but with a dosage of 8.3 g/L.  Round and full, it reveals orchard fruit, croissant, blanched almond and toasty leesy notes.  Very nicely balanced.  Made to commemorate the 1985 Reagan Gorbachev meeting. A beautiful, very drinkable food sparkler that was served at the White House for many years.

Iron Horse 2021 Year of the Snake Russian River Valley ($75) 93  This blanc de blancs is one of Iron Horse’s most flavorful sparklers. It reveals a fruity, lees-inflected nose and is round and full on the palate. 100% Chardonnay. 5.4 g/L RS. 13.5% alc.

Iron Horse 2016 Stargazing Cuvée Russian River Valley ($195/magnum) 93 Joy served this aged sparkler from magnum over lunch at the winery. It’s rich, mouth filling and perfectly balanced with prominent leesy notes complementing white peach, lemony citrus and apple. It shows how well sparkling wine pairs with food and, also, the benefits of aging sparkling wine, especially in magnums. A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.