Although overall Champagne exports dipped slightly in 2023, over 26 million bottles were shipped to the US, which remains the top export market for French wine and spirits. Growers and cooperatives account for 14% of the Champagne region’s total export revenue, and the rise of grower Champagnes is reshaping the market.
Celebrated for their authenticity, sustainable practices and connection to tradition, these artisanal wines are championed by sommeliers and embraced by wine lovers.
For those looking for new taste experiences and a departure from conventional choices, small producers and lesser-known brands offer authenticity – winemakers who adopt sustainable, environmentally-friendly practices and proudly promote certifications such as Haute Valeur Environnmentale (HVE) and Viticulture Durable en Champagne (VDC). Many of these producers load up their back label with details on these practices.
Consumers hunting for grower Champagne should look for bottles labelled ‘RM’ (Récoltant Manipulant), which indicates they are made by the grower. Ask your local wine shop to recommend producers with limited production and a focus on terroir. Online, search for specialised retailers or importers that highlight grower Champagnes and provide detailed tasting notes. Being curious and asking questions about vineyard practices and winemaking can also lead you to hidden gems.
The following three producers are grower Champagne houses with an expanding presence in the US market. Scroll down for reviews of these exciting Champagnes now making waves in North America.
Owner and winemaker Philippe Glavier. Credit: Champagne Philippe Glavier
Champagne Philippe Glavier
Owners: Philippe & Véronique Glavier
Founded: 1995
Location of winery: 82 Rue Nestor Gaunel, Cramant
Vineyard information: entirely Champagne Grand Cru Chardonnay, sourced from 4.7ha (52 different plots). HVE Level 3 certified since 2017
Current Champagnes produced:
La Grâce d’Alphaël Extra Brut et Brut Nature
La Grâce d’Hakamiah Extra Brut
Genesis Extra Brut
Idylle Celeste Rosé Extra Brut
Cramant Emotion 2015
Mesnil Emotion 2015
Folie de Cramant 2015
Folie du Mesnil 2015
Ratafia 2018
With Chardonnay plots spanning four villages – Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger – each is defined by distinct soils, as Véronique Glavier explains: ‘We think in terms of terroir, not grapes.’ She and her husband Philippe craft extra brut and brut nature wines, focusing on precision, tension and elegance.
Harvest dates are carefully tailored to each terroir, and small vats are used to preserve their unique expressions. Blending is guided by press cuts: ‘Cuvée A’ comes from the first and second press, ‘Cuvée B’ from the third and fourth and the ‘Taille’ from the fifth and sixth. Ageing on fine lees for several months adds complexity.
‘It’s like haute couture versus prêt-à-porter,’ says Glavier, ‘Without large financial resources, making haute couture isn’t easy, but our passion drives us to be ingenious.’
Four Philippe Glavier Champagnes to try
Philippe Glavier, La Grace d’Alphael Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
97pts
Glavier works exclusively with Chardonnay, and this blend of Grand cru plots from Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil and Oger is named after the angel of knowledge. The newest disgorgement of this wine offers exceptional value at its price point. The nose is captivating, with rich, toasty brioche, orchard fruit and white flowers. A beautiful, chalky minerality frames flavours of baked apple and nougat. Generous yet balanced, with 4.5g/L residual sugar countered by bright acid tension, the wine includes 34% reserve wine and spends 26 months ageing on the lees.
Alc 12.5%
Philippe Glavier, Genesis Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
95pts
Genesis is composed of 47% reserve wines and aged for 50 months on the lees. It opens with a lovely bouquet of chamomile, toasted almonds, citrus rind, wet-stone minerality and a subtle hint of black…
Source : https://www.decanter.com/sponsored/discovering-artisan-champagnes-and-boutique-bubbles-550939/
