Tasting barrel samples of Armagnac at Domaine de Pellehaut
The region of Gascony in Southwest France, for many, epitomises the irresistible charm of rural France. Dotted with medieval bastide villages, its gently rolling countryside holds the promise of a slower pace of life, punctuated by long lunches of foie gras and magret de canard, washed down with a glass or two of the country’s oldest spirit: Armagnac.
First referenced (for its health-giving benefits) as far back as 1310, Armagnac is sometimes rather lazily characterised as Cognac’s rustic cousin – a rough and ready counterpoint to Cognac’s poise and sophistication. The truth, however, is rather different: a combination of factors, from terroir to grape varieties, distillation methods and maturation, make Armagnac a remarkably diverse and fascinating drink that it can take a lifetime to explore.
If Cognac is analogous to Bordeaux, explains Dawn Davies MW, buying director at leading online retailer The Whisky Exchange, then Armagnac is Burgundy. Think a highly fragmented region filled with small, artisanal producers, where local knowledge is key.
For the Armagnac newcomer, exploring the category becomes a voyage of discovery. Tasting and comparing the nuances of grape variety, vineyard, age and distillation style until you find the Armagnac that’s right for you.
Armagnac: the vineyards
Armagnac vineyard in Gers, Gascony Credit: Alison Eckett / Alamy Stock Photo
Armagnac’s vineyards are scattered across Gascony. The départements of Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne play host to about 15,000ha of vines. The vineyards fall under either the IGP Côtes de Gascogne or the PDO Floc de Gascogne. Out of that total, roughly 4,200ha are exclusively allocated for Armagnac production, split into three zones:
Bas-Armagnac Located to the west, this area was once under the Atlantic. The receding waters left behind tawny sands (sables fauves) and boulbènes – a kind of sand/silt mix – with a high iron content. When combined with the highly distinctive Baco grape variety (see below), this unique terroir creates some of the region’s finest and most ageworthy eaux-de-vie.
Ténarèze To the east, this sub-region offers a diverse soil mix of boulbènes and chalk-clay, producing round, often opulent Armagnacs. The finest merit long maturation.
Haut-Armagnac A large, L-shaped zone that embraces Bas-Armagnac and Ténarèze to the east and south, but with relatively few vineyards.
Armagnac: grape varieties
Baco grapes Credit: Hilke Maunder / Alamy Stock Photo
In contrast to Cognac, where Ugni Blanc (aka Trebbiano) is all but ubiquitous, Armagnac offers a diverse palette of grape varieties. The most significant are:
Baco A crossing of Folle Blanche and the hybrid Noah, Baco was created in 1898 by François Baco, a Landais schoolmaster, to help the region’s vineyards recover from phylloxera. At one point, it was nearly banned; it’s the only hybrid variety permitted in a French AC, and makes some pretty unpalatable wine. But today its power and complexity, which often only emerge after decades of maturation, are highly prized.
Ugni Blanc As in Cognac, Ugni Blanc is valued for its high acidity and low alcohol, making it ideal for distillation and creating Armagnacs of great precision and finesse.
Folle Blanche Delicate and prone to mildew and rot, Folle Blanche is hard work, but worth it for its perfume, delicacy and finesse.
Armagnac: production
Armagnac stills at the Janneau Distillery Credit: Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l’Armgnac.
While some Armagnac is distilled twice, as in Cognac, the vast majority of the region’s eaux-de-vie are distilled once in a type of still that’s specific to the region: Alambic Armagnacais. This is a continuous still that can be tailored to the demands of the producer. It can give spirit that’s higher or lower in alcohol, purer or more robust and characterful, with the spirit coming off the still at around 55-60%…
Source : https://www.decanter.com/spirits/exploring-armagnac-549790/
