Peking duck served with pancakes, vegetables and condiment at Zither Garden, Hong Kong. Credit: South China Morning Post via Getty ImagesPeking duck: what’s the authentic way to enjoy it?
As one of the best-known Chinese dishes, Peking duck was once an imperial cuisine dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644).
Roasted duck, with its crispy, golden-brown skin and rich fat, is the heart and soul of this iconic dish. It is commonly served with wafer-thin pancakes, shredded cucumber and green onions. For condiments, hoisin sauce and, indeed, sugar.
If you are enjoying Peking duck in an authentic Chinese restaurant, the chef will skillfully slice the piping hot duck in front of you – giving you ample time for photos – and place the well-browned skins and juicy meat, sometimes separately (and arranged meticulously) in a single layer on a plate.
The traditional way is to dip the golden, fatty skin in sugar and enjoy the sweet and crunchy texture on its own first. Once happy with that, take a few slices of the skin, meat and vegetables (but not too much), add a dab of hoisin sauce, wrap them up with the pancake, and now – take a generous bite.
The succulent flavours of the juicy duck, the sweet and umami-rich sauce, and the freshness from the greens are gift-wrapped in a thin layer of dough – a satisfying mouthful guaranteed.
Is Pinot Noir the only answer for pairing?
If you ask a wine professional what to pair with Peking duck, Pinot Noir is almost always the default answer – for its delicate fruit, fine tannins, and medium body.
Indeed, if we were pairing wines with roasted duck alone, the task would be relatively straightforward. A Burgundian Pinot Noir, a peppery Syrah, a rosé Champagne or an oaked Chardonnay, all with fresh acidity to balance the richness and cut through the grease, would work beautifully.
Also read: Non-vintage rosé Champagne – Panel tasting results
However, with Peking duck, the equation changes. If you were to set aside the hoisin sauce and sugar, these classic choices are still perfectly valid. But once the condiments come into play, a more nuanced approach is needed.
‘Despite its popularity, I don’t believe in pairing Pinot Noir with Peking duck,’ sayss Jennifer Docherty MW, the first ethnically Chinese and Mandarin speaking MW.
The Hong Kong-based expert added that Pinot Noir is quite linear and thus doesn’t necessarily hold up to the greasy and rich mouthfeel.
Spätlese Riesling, instead, is Docherty’s top choice. ‘Nice acidity with more residual sugar should go perfectly with the duck and the sauce.’
In the realm of red wines, Docherty suggests a ripe Clare Valley Shiraz or a ‘nicely balanced’ Crozes-Hermitage Syrah – fine tannins and non-assertive acidity are key.
How about Chinese wines?
A sweet, juicy Chinese Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, or Malbec (avoiding the more robust, oaky, and tannic options) from sun-baked wine regions such as Ningxia and Xinjiang could pair nicely with the plummy hoisin sauce.
Marselan is a rather topical option if it’s on the wine list – the French crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache is considered by many to be the next ‘signature’ grape of Chinese wines. Again, opt for the less oaky, more fruity bottles.
If you’re feeling adventurous, try a bottle of Chinese icewine – especially those from Huanren in Liaoning province, Northeast China.
Produced in considerable quantities but rarely exported, these precious nectars tend to have a complex, rich flavour profile and brilliant elegance. When properly chilled, they’ll melt the greasiness and elevate the entire experience.
*Read more about Chinese wines in Decanter’s 2024 China supplement.
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