Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week included a Sauvignon Blanc from Kristof Nils Anderson who has established his own wine project after years as the founding winemaker at Gargiulo Vineyards and Scribe Wines. He’s crafted a very early-picked Sauvignon Blanc named “Sanna” that will appeal to those looking for sharper, crisper flavors in their Sauvignon Blanc.
I was also happy to receive a bottle of Etna Bianco from Tornatore this week because, let’s face it, when am I not happy to receive a bottle of Etna Bianco. The crisp, stony, saline character of Carricante from Sicily is one of my favorite wine profiles. The Tornatore rendition, their entry-level bottling, is typically tasty, and an excellent value.
I’ve also got some more of the fantastically good wines from Racines, the joint project between Étienne de Montille and Brian Sieve of Burgundy and Rodolphe Péters of Champagne. This week I’m recommending two of their single-vineyard Chardonnays from the famed Sanford & Benedict Vineyard and from the Bentrock Vineyard.
The folks at Bartholemew Estate sent through a few samples this week. This reincarnation of a historic Sonoma Wine estate (on the site of the original Sonoma Mission vineyard of 1823, which would eventually be owned by the famed Agoston Haraszthy) makes a wide variety of wines, including the nice red blend they call “Press Release” and a darker more brooding Syrah.
The Spanish region of Rioja has been going through some growing pains in recent years, as younger generations chafe against appellation rules that they believe are biased towards the traditions of the largest producers and which prevent the celebration of individual sites. One of the things that the Rioja DOC has done in response to this has been to create the definition of Viñedos Singulares, or named single vineyards older than 35 years. There are now more than 130 of these designated sites, and one of them owned by Beronia is called Vareia, and it features 50-year old vines of Tempranillo. The wine made from this site is very good and worthy of its vineyard designation. Beronia also sent through their Gran Reserva Tempranillo which is good, but honestly could do with a bit more time in the bottle.
Last but not least, I was sent a (new-to-me) wine from Cliff Lede Vineyards they call Diamond Sky which is inspired in part by the epic Pink Floyd song “Shine On You Crazy Diamond.” It’s an opulent, vibrant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Merlot from two of the winery’s vineyard blocks.
That’s all for this week. Notes on all these wines below.
Tasting Notes
2022 KNA Wines “Sanna” Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of cut grass and green apple. In the mouth, tart green apple and green herb flavors are silky, bright, and even a little sharp thanks to crackling acidity. Lean and somewhat angular. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $42. click to buy.
2023 Tornatore Etna Bianco, Sicily, Italy
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon and lime pith with a hint of struck match. In the mouth, saline flavors of lemon peel and grapefruit mix with lime and wet chalkboard as a hint of brimstone lingers in the finish. Excellent acidity. 12.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.
2022 Racines Wine “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of grapefruit and honeysuckle with a hint of candied orange. In the mouth, silky, stony, crystalline flavors of lemon peel, orange peel, white flowers, and lemon oil are bright with vibrant acidity and layered over a wet pavement…
Source : https://www.vinography.com/2024/12/vinography-unboxed-week-of-12-8-24