Casual dining at Albariza en las Venas in Jerez de la Frontera, with Jagatas Rosado from León, made by Sara González.
From tiny hole-in-the-wall bars to lofty Michelin-starred restaurants, Spain’s gastronomic scene is more dynamic and vibrant than ever. The next generation of restaurateurs, chefs and sommeliers are crafting remarkable wine lists, innovative food-and-wine pairings and unique fusion cuisine. It’s impossible to list every exciting new venue in Spain, but the four restaurants and wine bars below are a snapshot of the people and places worth knowing about.
Albariza en las Venas
Calle Divina Pastora 3, Local 51, Jerez de la Frontera
The bar area at Albariza en las Venas, which opened in Jerez in May 2024. Credit: Abelvaldenebro
From the moment winemaker Juan Carlos Vidarte and sommelier Rocío Benito first met during the 2021 harvest at Bodegas Luis Pérez in Jerez, they knew they would work together again. Their latest collaboration is Albariza en las Venas, which opened its doors in May 2024. Named for Sherry country’s famous chalk soils, ‘Albariza in the Veins’ is much more than your average neighbourhood wine bar. ‘We wanted to open a place where our friends could come, and young people weren’t afraid to open a bottle – but also where winemakers in Cádiz could find wines from all over the world,’ Benito says.
There’s a spotlight on local wines. ‘Jerez is in a really great place right now,’ Benito continues. ‘There’s this explosion of new projects, with a lot of winemakers arriving in the area and young people investing in different styles like vinos de pasto [unfortified wines, firmly rooted in Jerez terroir]; we want to give them a platform.’
They also offer selections from countries such as Italy, Greece and Croatia, ‘which up until now were completely unknown here’.
Benito describes the bar as ‘a really casual space’, adding: ‘Both of us like to have fun with wine and we wanted the space to reflect that. The important thing is to have a great time drinking wine, without any pretence.’
Wines are complemented by gildas (skewered olive, anchovy and guindilla pepper), sandwiches and other tapas. A standout combination is the Ibérico pork jowl sandwich paired with a sparkling pét-nat Palomino, another style that has become a darling of Jerezano winemakers recently. Benito recommends Bodega de Forlong’s Burbuja (2021, US$26 PJ Wine), Bodega Vinifícate’s Sparkling Amorro (£23.50 Dvine Cellars) and El Piraña’s Tarbissana.
Okra
Rúa Luís Seoane 11, O Grove, Galicia
Okra: roasted onion, dashi broth and Iberian pork jowl
Having begun his career in his native Japan, Takahide ‘Taka’ Tanaka first worked with Javier Olleros when the latter was at the celebrated Michelin three-star Basque restaurant Martín Berasategui. When in 2009 Olleros opened his own restaurant, Culler de Pau, Taka spent years in the kitchen as Olleros’ right-hand man, together achieving two Michelin stars. Taka fell in love with O Grove – and with his now-wife Siana, when she arrived at Culler de Pau.
The couple opened Okra in May 2024, just after the birth of their son. ‘We opened Okra so we could all be together,’ Taka explains. The concept is a tavern with attentive service, impeccable food and an informal atmosphere. ‘We offer professional service, but at the same time we want to chat with our guests,’ Taka says.
Visitors can expect Japanese-inflected dishes using Galician ingredients, paired with European wines and Japanese sakes. ‘Very good wines have been made in Galicia for a long time, and now they’re being promoted more in restaurants,’ Taka says, ‘where people are introducing small wineries, native grapes and blends, and offering more daring by-the-glass listings. We want to take a bit of a risk.’
He says the menu changes often: ‘In the short time we’ve been open, we’ve already made quite a few dishes. But if I had to choose one I would say the…
Source : https://www.decanter.com.master.public.keystone-prod-eks-euw1.futureplc.engineering/wine/spain-for-foodies-where-to-eat-and-drink-now-544312/
