Davit Dato Kobidze
(credit drwinkler)
Davit Dato and Tariel Kobidzes’ Family Cellars (Kobidzeeis Marani) is located in the mountains of Guria in village Erketi, Choktauri municipality, just south of the Supsa River, which flows into the Black Sea. David is a champion of the local indigenous varietals and in 2015 planted an experimental vineyard of 15, almost-extinct, Gurian varieties, including Mterandidi, Badagi, Kamuri, and Sakmiela, most of which came from the Tblisi state nursery. His vineyard also includes traditional maghlari (tree-trained) 100-150-year-old Aladasturi and Chkaveri vines (shown below). A few months ago I stopped by the winery, and David showed me his new vineyard and his current wines, sold under the Dato’s Wines label. All his wines are made from Gurian varieties: Sakmiela-Kamari, Aladasturi, Jani, Skhilatubani, and Chkhaveri. He gives his wines 2-4 weeks skin contact before racking off to a clean qvevri. [Note: The local name for qvevri is churi.] The US importer is the Georgian Wine House.
Guria
Located on the Black Sea with a humid, semi-tropical climate, Guria seems an unlikely place to be growing grapes and making wine. However, inland and upland, viticulture is possible. As elsewhere in Western Georgia many indigenous varieties largely disappeared after the diseases of the 19th century, but growers like David Kobidze and Zurab Topuridze are willing to give them another try. Interestingly for a humid, warm climate, many of the varieties being resuscitated are red grapes.
100 Year Old Aladasturi Grown Maghlari Style (credit drwinkler)
The Wines
Dato’s Sakmiela-Kamuri Amber
Dato’s Wine 2023 Sakmiela-Kamuri Amber Guria This is a 50/50 blend of Sakmiela and Kamuri that was traditionally fermented and aged on the skins in qvevri. This wine spends one month on the skins in qvevri and is then racked to a clean qvevri for 6 months aging. It opens with a nose of dried apple, pear and honeycomb. It has good depth of apple-melon flavor with a round mouth feel and a firm finish. 12% alc. Very good.
Dato’s Wine 2023 Aladasturi Guria Sourced from a 100+ year old vine grown maghlari style in David’s vineyard, the grapes are fermented in qvevri for 2 weeks on the skins and then racked to a clean qvevri for another 5-6 months. Aromas and flavors shows plum and dried cherry fruit. Soft on entry with a nice savory edge. Finishes very dry. 11% alc.
Dato’s Wine 2023 Ancestor’s Wine Chkhaveri Guria The Chkhaveri is also sourced from David’s 100-year-old, tree trained vine. It displays aromas of dried cherry, berries, and herbs. The palate is clean and slightly spritzy with good depth of strawberry and dried cranberry fruit. Only 3 days skin contact. 12% alc.
(credit: drwinkler)
Dato’s Wine 2023 Chkhaveri Guria This Chkhaveri is made from younger vines and is given more time (2 weeks) on the skins. Light red-mahogany color and revealing apple and dried red berries, the wine is fresh tasting and well balanced. An appealing, light red wine. Very good. 12% alc.
Dato’s Wine 2023 Jani-Skhilatubani Guria A blend of two Gurian varieties, Jani and Skhilatubani; the blend is attributed to the Scotsman Patrick Montague Marr, who planted a vineyard and made wine in Guria in the early 19th century[1]. It spends 2 weeks on the skins followed by another 6 months of aging in qvevri. Reveals red plum and berry fruit with a clean, fresh attack. A very fresh, well balanced, red fruited wine. 11% alc. Very good.
[1] For more, see Granik (2020) The Wines of Georgia.Source : https://i-winereview.com/blog/index.php/2025/03/13/the-wines-of-guria-datos-wine/
