Vintage Champagnes to Give This Holiday Season

Tasting Taittinger (credit drwinkler)

Champagne is the ultimate festive drink whether it’s the Holidays or any other special occasion. We’ve recently had the opportunity to taste vintage Champagnes and our Associate Editor Joel Butler MW returned not long ago from a trip to Champagne.  We’ve pulled together our notes on some of the vintage Champagnes that we especially liked.  We’ve listed our recommendations below according to three categories:  Brut, Blanc de Blancs, and Rosé.  [JB=reviewed by Joel Butler; DW=reviewed by Don Winkler].

For further suggestions on wines to give to wine lovers this holiday season, please consult our just published Report # 108, IWR’s 2025 Holiday Gift Guide, available free of charge at www.iwinereview.com

BRUT

Winemaker Bérangère Fierfort-Caqué at Bollinger (credit JButlerMW)

Bollinger 2015 La Grand Année Brut 96 An unusually dry growing season resulted in low yields and small berries harvested later than usual to ensure ripeness.  The result is a bold wine dramatic in intensity and breadth. The bouquet reveals citrus, pear, spice and brioche and a texturally rich, dense palate. A special Champagne that can be cellared for many years. A 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay fermented in oak barrels with 8 g/L dosage.  12.5% alc. DW

Henriot 2013 Cuvée Hemera Grand Cru 95  First made in 1889, this cuvée is from equal amounts of the 6 founding Grands Crus of the house; the Hemera Cuvée thus reflects the vintage. It’s not made every year, and 2013 is a surprising choice given the cold wet growing season and the humid, very late harvest. But, as winemaker Alice Tétienne says, challenging conditions can produce character, and the 2013 Hemera exudes character.  The bouquet reveals citrus zest, almonds, and fresh bread crust. The medium weight palate has a refined elegance, chalky minerality, brioche-like notes and juicy acidity. A blend of Chardonnay from Avize, Chouilly Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Pinot Noir from Mailly, Verzeney and Verzy given at least 10 years of aging. Dosage 3.5 g/L, 12% alc.  DW

Perrier-Jouët 2014 Belle Epoque Brut 94   Pale yellow-gold. Opens with a highly fragrant bouquet of white fruit and flowers.  Bright and energetic on the palate with nice textural finesse and mid-palate depth.  There’s fine effervescence and mineral driven persistence on the finish. 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier. Dosage 8 g/L  DW

Clos de Goisses Vineyard in Mareuil sur Ay Sloping Down to the Marne (credit JButlerMW}

Philipponnat 2013 Clos de Goisses Extra-Brut 98 Champagne’s first single vineyard wine from the 5.5 ha, steeply (45°) sloped, Clos de Goisses vineyard facing south over the Marne river.  The cool, late 2013 vintage produced even lower yields than usual. An exceptional wine revealing white and yellow orchard fruits along with honeyed pastry and saline and toast notes. Densely flavored, stunning mouth feel, and finishing with lingering chalky minerality. 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay partly (50%) vinified in oak barrels (no malo) and aged several years on the lees. From the late harvested 2013 vintage. Dosage 4.5 g/L 12.5% alc.  DW

Roederer 2016 Cristal Brut 98 Medium yellow green gold.  Very floral on the nose with refined, delicate bouquet of brioche, honey baked bread, and light nutty aromas. Crisp on the palate with strong chalkiness and good acid grip. A wine with broad depth, rich fruit, and strong character. 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, all from Grands Cru vineyards; disgorged in 2023. Dosage 7 g/L.  12.5% alc.  JB

BLANC DE BLANCS

Tasting at Roederer in Reims (credit JButlerMW)

Ayala 2016 Collection No 16 Blanc de Blancs 93  Opens with fragrant scents of white fruit, Meyer lemon, and pastry dough. The medium weight palate is fresh and focused with nicely delineated fruit and lingering minerals on the finish. Perfect for the dining table. A blend of Chardonnay, Arbane, Petit Meslier, and Pinot Blanc from Premiers and Grands Crus in the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims. Disgorged 1/23. Dosage 5.4 g/L. 12% alc. DW

Henriot 2018 L’inattendue Côte des Blancs Grand Cru 95  L’inattendue (“unexpected”) expresses a single grape, single terroir, and single vintage.  In 2018 the grape is Chardonnay, and the terroir is Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs. The vineyard parcel selected gives high acidity even in a hot year; in 2023 the parcel selected was the same as that for 2018. The 2018 L’inattendue opens with floral and toasty/earthy aromatics and follows with a fresh, focused, mineral-like palate with ripe lemon and stone fruit notes. A gorgeous, energetic Champagne. Aged a minimum of 4 years. Dosage 2 g/L 12% alc. DW

Leclerc-Briant 2018 Vertus 1er Cru Les Monts Ferrés Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 95 Richly aromatic bouquet of honey-nut, light hazelnut and brioche. Fresh and elegant in character, showing the depth and finesse one would expect from a Grand Cru. Stylish and long on the finish. This is the first vintage of this single vineyard Blanc de Blancs from Les Monts Ferres in Vertus. Vinified and aged in oak barrels for 9 months. Almost 5 years sur lattes. Dosage 1.4 g/L  Disgorged April 2024. 12.5% alc. JB

Roederer 2017 Blanc de Blancs La Côte 95 Made from all Chardonnay grown in the chalky soils of the Avize Grand Cru. The bouquet is yeasty and brioche like with delicate floral fruit. Wonderfully creamy, round palate with polished, refined flavors hinting of broom and acacia florality. Finishes with stoney mineral notes and a hint of salinity. Vinified in 2/3 stainless steel and 1/3 oak.  Low pressure—4.5 bars. Dosage 7 g/L. 12.5% alc. JB

ROSE

Bollinger 2015 La Grande Année Rosé 95 Vivid pink rose with light salmon-orange reflex. Bouquet of spicy blood orange, pink grapefruit with hints of brioche and Fuji apple. Rich and ripe on the palate showing apple with hints of cinnamon spice, red currant and a touch of toastiness. Very impressive, fine wine! A blend of 40% Chardonnay from Cuis Premier Cru and 60% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and Verzenay Grands Crus with 5-6% still Pinot Noir, 1/3 whole cluster pressed. Dosage 7 g/L. Disgorged February 2024. 12.5% alc.  JB

Henriot 2015 Rosé Millésimé 94 Light salmon pink in color revealing intricate aromas of red berries, blood orange, rose petals and a hint of cardamon spice. In the mouth it’s energetic, full and focused with just the right level of creamy richness. Chalky mineral notes show on the long finish.  63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay with 10% Pinot Noir still wine. Dosage 3 g/L  12% alc. DW

Taittinger 2012 Comtes de Champagne Rosé 96  A beautifully balanced rosé Champagne with lively precise aromas of red berries, dried cherry, blood orange, and wildflowers.  Excellent density and depth with finesse on the palate finishing long on an austere note.  Blend of 30% Chardonnay Grands Crus from the Côte des Blancs and 70% Pinot Noir Grands Crus from the Montagne de Reims; includes 14% still Pinot Noir red wine.  Dosage 9 g/L. 12.5% alc DW