Bollinger Champagne: Current Releases

Bollinger’s Private Cellar (Credit JButlerMW)

While Bollinger has been in existence since 1829, its most famous patron was none other than the well-known bon vivant super-agent James Bond, perhaps attributable to the strong, historical relationship between Bollinger and the British Crown. In addition to James Bond, Bollinger is renowned for its focus on Pinot Noir and its use of oak barrels for fermenting and aging.

One of the rare Grande Marques that is still family owned, Bollinger has always had a focus on Pinot Noir.  It recently introduced a new series of Pinot Noir based Champagnes focused on specific regions and vintages. Bollinger has 180 hectares of sustainably farmed estate vineyards currently undergoing conversion to organic. Estate fruit meets about half its needs. Over the last decade it has changed farming practices to lower yields, eliminated herbicides, and reduce their carbon footprint, thus raising quality. It’s well known for barrel fermenting and aging (6-8 months) a high percentage of its wines and then using the costly process of bottling and hand disgorging their Reserve wines in magnums under cork from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Bollinger makes bold wines, mostly from estate fruit. Bollinger is one of the last independent, family managed Champagne houses. Its Réserve wine system is unique in Champagne. Bollinger is part of the Société Jacques Bollinger, which also owns Ayala Champagne. Denis Bunner is Bollinger’s chef de cave.  The US importer is Vintus.

The following tasting notes are mainly the result of Joel Butler MW’s visit to Champagne and Bollinger late last year; in addition, Don Winkler tasted several Bollinger Champagnes in Washington DC.  [JB=tasted by Joel Butler MW; DW=tasted by Don Winkler].

The Champagnes

Winemaker Bérangère Fierfort-Caqué at Bollinger (credit JoelButlerMW)

Bollinger MV Special Cuvée Brut Champagne 92 Pale gold with a hint of green. Very fresh floral, leesy-toasty aromas followed by currant notes. A lovely wine, vibrant and fresh with clear Pinot Noir focus. More refined and “airy” than previous releases of this Champagne. 60% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay 15% Meunier from the 2020 base year with 3 years en tirage; disgorged April 2024.  RS 6 g/L, 12.5% alc. JB

Bollinger MV Rosé Brut Champagne 92 Made from the 2020 base year, the Rosé Brut shows a solid orange salmon color. Fresh strawberry and currant on the nose with light minerality, then turning to blood orange flavors. Creamy fresh mousse and medium-bodied, the palate is richly fruity, spicy and crisp with an intense finish. A hint of phenolicy spicy, bitterness adds complexity.  34% Chardonnay and 66% Pinot Noir, including 6%19  Pinot Noir from Aÿ. 12.5% alc. JB

Bollinger MV PN AYC18 Champagne 94  Expressive bouquet of apples and pears, brioche and rose petals. Full on the palate with bright, rich flavors of mineral-inflected orchard fruit. Fine effervescence and striking depth. All Aÿ Pinot Noir from the 2018 base year with reserved wines aged in magnum. 6 g/L dosage, 12.5% alc. DW

Bollinger MV PN VZ19 Champagne 96  Fine perlage. Refined insistent brioche aromas with red currant fruit. Perfect balance on a sumptuous palate showing floral, almond and light brioche notes. Finishes with a distinctive Meyer lemon sweetness. A blend of 52% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the 2019 vintage, mostly from Verzenay, 25% barrel fermented, and 48% reserve Pinot Noirs going back to 2009. 6 g/L dosage, 12.5% alc. JB, DW [tasted at different times and locations with the same overall evaluation]

Bollinger MV PN TX20 93  Recently disgorged at the time of tasting, the Blanc de Noirs PN TX20 is vinous and taut. Rich and vibrant on the palate. Needs time. The PN TX20 is made mostly from 2020 Pinot Noir from Tauxiéres located on the southwest slopes of the Montagne de Reims. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and oak, it includes 50% reserve wines. 8 g/L dosage. Disgorged January 2025. 12.5% alc. DW

Bollinger 2015 La Grand Année Brut 95-6 An unusually dry growing season resulted in low yields and small berries harvested later than usual.  The result is a bold, ripe fruited wine dramatic in intensity and breadth. The bouquet reveals citrus, pear, spice and brioche-hazelnut and a texturally rich, dense palate. A special Champagne that can be cellared for many years. A 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay fermented in oak barrels with 8 g/L dosage.  12.5% alc. DW, JB [tasted at different times and locations]

Bollinger 2015 La Grande Année Rosé 95 Vivid pink rose with light salmon-orange reflex. Bouquet of spicy blood orange, pink grapefruit with hints of brioche and Fuji apple. Rich and ripe on the palate showing apple with hints of cinnamon spice, red currant and a touch of toastiness. Very impressive, fine wine! A blend of 40% Chardonnay from Cuis Premier Cru and 60% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and Verzenay Grands Crus with 5-6% still Pinot Noir, 1/3 whole cluster pressed. Dosage 7 g/L. Disgorged February 2024. 12.5% alc. JB

Bollinger 2008 R. D. Extra Brut Champagne 97 The platinum gold 2008 RD (for Recently Disgorged) displays a fine perlage and a lovely rich brioche toasty strong bouquet with definite mineral-stony notes. At first the palate shows strong lemony-citrus, freshness leading into hints of blood orange before the appearance of a strong autolytic biscuitiness that is subsumed under very fresh fruit. Excellent finesse and depth. Needs much more time.   70% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and 30% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Oiry, all barrel fermented, and aged 13 years.  3 g/L dosage; 12.5% alc. JB

Bollinger 2014 Brut La Côte aux Enfants Pinot Noir Champagne 98 Deep bouquet with honey and light herbal notes. Focused, vibrant and textured like the RD with full autolytic notes. Detailed, rich honey and mineral-apple fruit flavors. Finishes long and deep with quince and Fuji apple notes. Truly excellent and rich, yet energetic. From the 2 ha, steeply sloped enclosed vineyard near the Maison Bollinger, planted en foules with provignage planting. All barrel fermented; disgorged February 2024 after 9 years aging sur lie.  6 g/L dosage, 12.5% alc.  JB