We tasted the Hartford wines at the winery with Tiaan Lordan, a native of South Africa and graduate of Stellenbosch University and Elsenburg Agricultural College. He interned at Hartford Family Wines under winemaker Jeff Mangahas and worked his way up to the Winemaker position in 2018. He has added Chenin Blanc to Hartford’s range of wines.
(credit Hartford)
CHARDONNAY
Hartford Court’s Chardonnays are all fermented in barrel using ambient yeast and go through full malo. In addition to the single vineyard wines reviewed here, Hartford makes an entry level ($32) Chardonnay that is a blend of vineyards located in several of the Russian River Valley neighborhoods. Aged 9 months in 24% new French oak, it offers excellent value in a Russian River Chardonnay.
Hartford Court 2023 Chardonnay Three Jacks Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($70) 94 The Three Jacks Vineyard Chardonnay opens with lively scents of lemon drop and mineral-accented pear. It’s refined and suave with optimally ripened fruit and a hint of creamy oak. From a small vineyard in the heart of Green Valley farmed by the Dutton family. Aged 15 months in 28% new French oak. pH 3.26, 14.1% alc.
Hartford Court 2023 Chardonnay Fog Dance Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($70) 95 The Fog Dance Chardonnay is delicate with a firm backbone, juicy acidity and very appealing green apple and citrus fruit. The bouquet reveals fresh fruit and hints of honeyed oak and a light reductive note. Impressive depth and persistence. From Jackson Family’s Fog Dance Vineyard located across the valley from Iron Horse and planted in 1998 to Dijon 96 and ENTAV 809 on fine, sandy Goldridge soils. Aged in 12% new French oak for 14 months. 14.6% alc.
Hartford Court 2023 Chardonnay Jennifer’s Vineyard (Sebastopol Hills) ($75) 95 The perfumed Jennifer’s Vineyard Chardonnay opens with a sumptuous nose of lemon and crushed pineapple. The palate offers excellent richness and depth with sizzling acidity. Sourced from a vineyard planted in 2005 to old Wente selection Chardonnay on the edge of the Petaluma Gap with a cold, windy climate. Aged 13 months in 25% new French oak. pH 3.19, 14.1% alc.
PINOT NOIR
Hartford’s Pinot Noirs are harvested at night, given a 5-day cold soak, and fermented in 2-5 ton stainless steel fermenters using ambient yeast. Fully destemmed, in general. The single vineyard program focuses on cooler growing neighborhoods of the Russian River Valley. In addition to the single vineyard Pinot Noirs reviewed below, Hartford makes an excellent, entry level Russian River Valley vineyard blend aged 9 months in 27% new French oak.
Hartford Court 2023 Pinot Noir Jennifer’s Vineyard Russian River Valley (Sebastopol Hills) 96 The Jennifer’s Pinot Noir has a vibrant, complex bouquet that evokes raspberry, dark cherry and a hint of tea and dried rose. Supremely silky in the mouth with striking purity and precision and a long after taste inflected with savory notes. Jennifer Vineyard’s Pinot Noir blocks are planted to Dijon 777 and the Swan and Pommard selections. Matured 13 months in 23% new French oak. pH 3.44, 14.1% alc.
Hartford Court 2023 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($85) 95 Hailey’s Block Pinot Noir offers a floral, perfumed nose of rose petals, Green Valley spice and red berries. Delicate in character with a layered, silky palate of red fruits and polished, soft tannins. Hailey’s Block is located within the Arrendell Vineyard, a cold, low lying vineyard; it was planted in 1996 to Dijon 114 and 777. Aged 15 months in 21% new French oak. pH 3.55, 14.6% alc.
Hartford Court 2023 MacLean’s Block Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($78) 95 Organically farmed with very poor soils, MacLean’s Block gives a very light crop with small clusters and berries resulting in a high skin to juice ratio. It presents refined and pure solid red fruit on a rich, velvety palate with crunchy tannins. Very ageable. Sourced from an estate vineyard planted to Dijon 667 and 777 on a northeast facing slope amidst redwoods and oaks on the edge of Green Valley in the Freestone-Occidental area. About 8% whole cluster; aged 14 months in 11% new French oak. pH 3.49, 14.8% alc.
Hartford Court 2023 Pinot Noir Arendell Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($110) 96 This wine comes from one of the coldest spots in Green Valley. It has one of the latest bud breaks and latest pickings. Dark cherry and plum with earth notes on the nose. Big and full flavored on a semi-viscous, suave and layered palate showing dark fruit with savory notes. A powerful wine that also shows finesse. Super long finish. Sourced from the old vine Arendell Vineyard planted (probably to the Martini clone) 8×12 next to Atascadero Creek off Occidental Rd planted in 1975. Yields below one ton/acre. Aged 14 months in 12% new French oak. pH 3.26, 14.2% alc.
ZINFANDEL
Hartford Family Winery makes six single vineyard Russian River Valley old vine Zinfandels in addition to a blend of the six vineyards, all over 100 years old except for Jolene’s Vineyard, which was planted in 1998. All the Zinfandels are hand-picked at night, destemmed, sorted, given a 5 day cold soak and fermented with native yeast in 2-5 ton fermenters, then matured in Bordeaux shape 225L barrels.
Hartford 2023 Zinfandel Jolene’s Vineyard Russian River Valley (Santa Rosa Plain) ($65) 95 This concentrated, dark-fruited wine made from almost 100-year-old vines offers ripe blackberry, black currant, and sottobosco aromas and flavors. The fruits is rich and sweet, and the mouth feel is viscous, yet bright acidity gives the wine a lively freshness that belies its high alcohol. From a 21-acre vineyard on Olivet Road managed by grower Joanne Maffei; her grandparents, Umberto and Maria Maffei, planted this vineyard in 1928. Matured 9 months in 48% new French oak. pH 3.32, 16.1% alc.
Hartford 2023 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard Russian River Valley (Santa Rosa Plain) 96 Black fruit is complemented by black raspberry and boysenberry along with a distinctive dash of white pepper in this big, rich wine. Beautifully balanced with firm acidity, finishing with lingering rich extract and firm, well-knit tannins. A field blend of 95% Zinfandel and 5% other varieties, including Petite Sirah, sourced from the 100+ year old Highwire Vineyard, purchased by Hartford Family Winery from Lloyd and Dee Chelli in 2018. The name refers to the vineyard’s trellising: a high wire trellis is strung between head-trained vines resulting in half the parcel being head trained and half trellised. Aged 9 months in 44% new French oak. pH 3.29, 15.9% alc.
Hartford 2023 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard Russian River Valley (Santa Rosa Plain) ($65) 94 The Fanucchi-Wood Road Zinfandel expresses dark berries, cherries and licorice with notes of chocolate shavings and espresso. Silky on the attack with firm, dry tannins on the back palate. Concentrated and full-bodied in the mouth. From an organically farmed, unirrigated, head trained, 7-acre vineyard of Zinfandel and Tousseau Gris planted in 1890; located off Wood Road and managed by the Fanucchi family for over 40 years. The vineyard’s sandy loam soils produce tiny berries with concentrated flavors. Aged 9 months in 54% new French oak. pH 3.37, 15.5% alc.