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Ahead of – and beyond – the celebration of International Women’s Day on 8 March, this year’s edition of Barcelona Wine Week (BWW) held a special tasting and panel discussion on ‘Vinos de Autora’, featuring a stellar line up of wines produced under the technical direction of female winemakers. It showcased female talent in the best possible way: without a ‘gendered’ perspective but rather, and simply, by showcasing their work and experience.
Knowledge and talent – beyond gender
Moderated by the Catalan sommelier and journalist Meritxell Falgueras (also fifth generation at the helm of Celler de Gelida) the panel included Laura Tragant (head winemaker at Codorníu, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia), Martina Prieto Pariente (winemaker and second generation, Bodegas Prieto Pariente, Rueda), Amor López (winemaker and founder, Bodega Erupción, Lanzarote), Mireia Pujol-Busquets (winemaker and second generation, Alta Alella, Alella), Mayte Calvo de la Banda (technical director, Bodegas Bilbaínas, Rioja), Anne Cannan (winemaker and second generation, Clos Figueras, Priorat), María Barbadillo (winemaker, Bodegas Barbadillo, Jerez) and Clara Verheij (winemaker and founder, Bodegas Bentomiz, Málaga). All the presenters are members of Mujeres del Vino, a collective, spearheaded by Cannan, that advocates for the visibility of women working across the different sectors of the wine sector, from the vineyards to the restaurant table.
The group brought to the table a wealth of winemaking talent as well as entrepreneurial acumen and experience navigating complex sets of challenges – not least by virtue of having built successful careers in a once male-dominated industry and, in some cases, carved their own personal identity from established family legacies.
Clara Verheij, Mayte Calvo de la Banda, Anne Cannan, Laura Tragant, Martina Prieto Pariente, Amor López, Mireia Pujol-Busquets and Meritxell Falgueras, at the Vinos de Autora session during BWW
Diversity and resilience
One couldn’t help but wonder whether there isn’t some correlation between greater inclusivity – of gender, background, nationality and philosophy – and the outstanding evolution that Spanish wine has experienced in the last 30 years, both on the quality and creative front. And, as the panel highlighted, a more diverse language and vocabulary of wine ultimately lead to more inclusivity among consumers as well.
The heterogeneity of the panel – with winemakers from very different personal and professional trajectories – offered a glimpse of the vibrancy of the Spanish wine scene, enriched as much by the continuity and stability of longstanding family-owned businesses (Barbadillo, Prieto Pariente), modern pioneering projects capable of mobilising their respective DOs (Alta Alella, Erupción) and ventures lead by passionate foreigners, bringing with them a different vision and maverick determination (Clos Figueras, Bentomiz).
Indeed the session focused not just on matters of gender equality and representation but also, and perhaps more topically, on the issues affecting the Spanish (and world) wine industry broadly. It was a vibrant discussion that presciently touched on economical and political setbacks, climate change and social sustainability – the latter deeply co-dependent on greater inclusivity and equality among the work force.
Eight wines, many more questions
The eight wines tasted served as an easy, logical thread – natural prompts to each of the topics raised, starting with Barbadillo’s ÁS de Mirabrás Sumatorio, which contextualised the need to preserve – while reinventing – traditional styles by reinterpreting the classics and asserting a personal (and generational) identity.
Both Erupción’s Milagro de Magmasia and José Pariente’s Finca Las Comas made the case for the preservation of ancient soils and old vines (one of the key focusses of BWW this year) of which Spain has a particularly significant stock. Maintaining them…
[ad_2]Source : https://www.decanter.com/wine/vinos-de-autora-for-a-more-inclusive-language-of-wine-553904/
