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After studying viticulture and oenology, he worked in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the Rhône valley, at Domaine de Beaurenard, followed by stints in New Zealand, Languedoc and Luberon. The Piwi adventure started in 2021 when he returned home and realised that fungal vine diseases were a big problem in his region. ‘All my friends were already losing 80%-100% of their production,’ he tells me.
Deciding that he wanted to ‘try to do something that will be more relevant, which will have more of a future and also be better for the environment’, he began to research disease-resistant grape varieties.
He met two producers growing Piwis, one local and another in Languedoc. They advised him not to jump in and plant them on the family farm until he knew exactly which ones he’d like to work with, and offered to work with him until then.
Under the name Wine Impact, from these two producers’ grapes he makes two stylistically different ranges – Raisis and Darwin. The Raisis wines (a portmanteau of raisin, ‘grape’ in French, and resistance) are blends ‘made to democratise Piwi grapes’, he says, the aim being that ‘everybody, not only wine lovers, will appreciate them. Not complex, but wines we love to share with friends by the glass – and that’s it.’
Tournier realised that in order for Piwi grapes to become better known, people would need to start to recognise the aromas of each individual variety, so he focused on creating single-varietal wines, which he releases under the Darwin name. These wines are made ‘to put the Piwi grapes in the place they belong, among the good wines. If you give them the chance and make them like you make great wine, they will express like great wine,’ he says. ‘I am one of the few to give them the treatment they deserve.’
The wines are already listed in top restaurants in France, including Michelin one-star Restaurant Nicolas Carro in Brittany and Acte 2 Yannick Delpech in Toulouse. The next step will be to plant his own Piwi varieties and build winemaking facilities at the family domaine.
At just 28, Tournier is a young visionary embedding himself firmly in the winemaking of tomorrow.
What are…? Piwi grape varieties
Piwis (short for Pilzwiderstandsfähige Reben, German for ‘fungus-resistant vines’) are hybrid grape varieties bred specifically to be resistant to certain fungal grapevine diseases – such as powdery and downy mildew – by crossing Vitis vinifera with other vine species, such as American or Asian vines.
As the Piwi varieties are much less likely to contract disease, less fungicide needs to be used and they also possess significant resilience in the face of climate change.
Sip to make a difference
Wine Impact, Raisis Blanc, Southwest France 2024
Score 88
£13.99 (2022) DrinkWell
A Vin de France 50/50 blend of hybrid varieties Muscaris (Solaris x Muscat) and Souvignier Gris (Seyval Blanc x Zähringer) – ‘a famous blend in the Piwi world,’ according to Roman Tournier. Aromatic, with delicate notes of honeysuckle and mango, as well as lime, candied lemon peel and refreshing acidity. This has great appeal in its exotic fruit and cleansing finish – a crowdpleaser. Drink 2025-2028 Alc 12%
Wine Impact, Darwin Vidoc, Languedoc 2021
Score 88
wineimpact.fr
A Vin de France made from hybrid variety Vidoc, which has another hybrid, Regent, as a parent, this is unexpectedly savoury and complex with a wild side. Plump with blackcurrant fruit, a gamey, ferrous character and grippy tannins, so best enjoyed with food. Drink 2025-2028 Alc 12.5%
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