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Moldovan sommelier Denis Lungu choosing wine
Growing up in a winemaking family in Moldova, Denis Lungu learnt firsthand about low-intervention, natural winemaking. He remembers fresh, fruity wines, made from local grape varieties such as Feteasc? Neagr? and Feteasc? Regal?.
Now as senior sommelier in the Gleneagles team, he’s introducing Moldovan labels to the UK market, both through the wine list and via public tastings with WoodWinters, in collaboration with specialist Moldovan importer WineChateau.co.uk. He chooses local Moldovan grapes as a unique proposition for the UK market.
As examples, Lungu highlights Mile?tii Mici’s Purpuriu de Purcari, made from Pinot Franc (a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, developed in Moldova in 1965, and rare to find as a monovarietal wine) and Lupi, a beautiful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Saperavi produced by Gitana.
Moldovan wines offer exciting food matches. Photograph provided by Wine of Moldova.
How would you pair Gitana’s award-winning Manastirea Rohrbach Cru 2020?
This 100% Riesling expression from Gitana is fresh and vibrant, with aromas of honeysuckle. Slightly off-dry (like many Moldovan wines – due to the hot climate), it ages beautifully, gaining petrol notes. Pair with a traditional Moldovan rabbit dish, cooked in double cream. The wine’s fresh acidity and gentle hint of sweetness complements the tender, light meat and buttery, creamy sauce. Smoked lobster is another perfect pairing.
What gives Moldovan winemaking a point of difference?
From rustic, skin-contact, natural wine styles made in small quantities, to a rise in biodynamics and traditional approaches such as foot treading, winemaking in Moldova celebrates innovation. One exciting example is the first wine to be made with AI in Moldova, which was presented at ProWein, Düsseldorf, in 2024.
Château Vartely in Codru PGI. Photograph provided by Wine of Moldova.
What challenges and opportunities does Moldova’s climate bring?
Temperatures can reach 40°C in summer and can drop as low as -16°C in winter – but Moldovan wineries have adapted to these extremes. Careful pruning is needed to avoid frost damage: either in autumn or closer to spring. In winter, the vines are buried with compost or ash to protect them from frost. Moldova is also experimenting with ice wine – Château Purcari produces a nice example from Muscat Ottonel and Traminer, whilst Château Vartely makes a delicious expression from Riesling.
What can you tell us about Moldovan sparkling wines?
Moldova makes traditional-method sparkling wines as well as tank-method wines. A key producer is Cricova, who pioneered the traditional method in Moldova and still hand-riddles for its vintage cuvées, which see five years on lees. I shared Cricova’s Grand Vintage Brut 2012 (100% Pinot Noir) as a part of a blind tasting for my team, and they were blown away.
Sparkling styles in Moldova range from extra brut to sweet, often made with local grapes such as Feteasc? Alb? and Feteasc? Regal?. Château Purcari was among the first in Moldova to use local varieties in its sparkling wines, all of which are made using the traditional method. Its Cuvée de Purcari Feteasc? Alb? Brut is a great example of how well suited these grapes are to sparkling wines.
Crama Mirce?ti in the Ungheni hills, in Codru PGI. Photograph provided by Wine of Moldova.
Finally, can you recommend two local grapes, and how would you pair them?
The white variety Viorica can be made in a range of styles, from dry to off-dry, and orange too. It’s somewhere between Gewürtztraminer and Pinot Gris, with notes of acacia, lemon, lime and apricot: making for very ripe wines, yet with beautiful vibrancy and freshness. When vinified as an orange wine, it gives notes of dried apricots, nectarines, honeysuckle, honeycomb and a hint of sourness. I’d pair Viorica with traditional Moldovan fish dishes: lake fish fried in breadcrumbs or baked carp. It works…
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