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A country of unexpectedly great wines

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A country of unexpectedly great winesVineyards in Moldova.

Situated between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is one of Europe’s smallest countries. A hearty spirit is required for winemaking here, where freezing winds are a common occurrence. Yet it is these winds that provide the cooling influences needed for more gentle, slow ripening despite the fierce Moldovan sun. Soils are predominantly alluvial: composed of a mix of sand, clay, limestone and a thin layer of dark, nutrient-rich chernozem.

The changing face of Moldovan wine

It may not be the most well-known winemaking country, yet producers have quietly revolutionised the industry in recent decades, creating quality wines with personality. After a century of political and cultural upheaval, Moldova has carved its own path and secured a strong future for the sector. Quality continues to rise and the country’s wines have won over 7,000 medals at international competitions in the last five years.

Moldova’s wine industry now benefits from more rigorous traceability standards and quality controls, and dynamic marketing that has opened new markets. In 2024 Moldova exported bottled wine to 69 countries, with its top markets being the USA, Romania, the Czech Republic, Poland and the Netherlands, with 51% of exports destined for Europe.

The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) has chosen Moldova to host the 46th World Congress of Vine and Wine from 16-20 June 2025, recognising the country’s work towards sustainability, and further raising Moldova’s winemaking profile. This milestone event, which will be held in the capital city of Chi?in?u, marks a key moment for the country, where over 700 experts will come together to grapple with the future challenges and opportunities that the wine industry faces.

Ion Luca, winemaker at Carpe Diem. Photograph provided by Carpe Diem.

Keeping things local

Like many small and dynamic producers in Moldova today, Ion Luca of Carpe Diem is committed to promoting indigenous varieties. ‘They are unique and give us a better chance to survive,’ explains Luca. With so much competition in international markets, particularly at premium price points, local grapes offer differentiation. Luca is particularly enthusiastic about Viorica, a white variety that is proving very versatile. It is the protagonist in a new dry wine in his range, as well as an orange wine and even a late-harvest sweet wine that won a Best of Show award at Mundus Vini.

Dimitrii Titica, president of Radacini. Photograph provided by Radacini.

Another reason for celebration

‘Our historical habits of celebrations heavily drive the popping of bottles,’ president at Radacini, Dmitrii Titica is excited about growing sparkling wine consumption, which in Moldova outstrips that of still wine. The country has a long tradition of sparkling production, thanks to perfect conditions in Codru PGI in the centre of the country, where a cooler climate produces grapes with good acidity.

Titica is encouraged by the development of different styles: ‘We have seen a steady switch from semi-dry products to Brut, Extra Brut and even recently Brut Nature.’ Radacini’s own range includes delicious sparkling wines from indigenous grapes such as Viorica and Feteasc? Alb?, as well as the award-winning Métier line of traditional-method sparkling wines.

Vasile Ro?ca, president of the Divin PGI Association. Photograph provided by Wine of Moldova.

History distilled

Moldova also enjoys a long tradition of brandy production. These distilled wine spirits undergo significant ageing and are classified within the Divin PGI (meaning divine in Romanian). ‘What makes Divin so special is its harmonious blend of tradition, terroir and time-honoured craftsmanship,’ explains Vasile Ro?ca, president of the Divin PGI Association, ‘It’s a soulful expression of a place and its people, starting in the 19th century.’

These brandies follow a strict categorisation to maintain quality, according to defined minimum ageing…

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Source : https://www.decanter.com/sponsored/a-country-of-unexpectedly-great-wines-550877/
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