Wine writing is often awful. It can be obscenely dull. It can be entertaining, but written by those who know too little (or, worse, think they know more than they do). Perhaps the worst is the odd troupe of writers who don’t even seem to like wine. Dan Keeling – one half of the duo behind Noble Rot – is one of the exceptions.
Whether you like or loathe the cliquey-but-cult magazine, Keeling’s latest book Who’s Afraid of Romanée-Conti? is genuinely joyous. Keeling notes that he and his friend-turned-business-partner Mark Andrew MW were brought together by ‘a thirst for what lies under the next cork’ – and this book drips with that thirst.
It’s an intoxicating ride-along with a modern-day bon vivant, injected with his trademark irreverence. Flick to a page titled ‘The Vapours of Paradise’ and you’ll find an enviable list of some of the finest vintages and cuvées known to humanity (Keeling’s death-row wines) – but this isn’t just about the loftiest bottles. As the title suggests, this book is about finding the great – wherever that may be. You’ll find him endorsing everything from value-driven Vinho Verde to Sherry, Muscadet, Barolo and Corsican Sciaccarellu.
Designed by the Pentagram studio and littered with the frank photography of Benjamin McMahon – bringing the people and places to life – it’s a beautiful book that deserves a place on any coffee table. And the format – a collection of shorter features, some original and many previously published in Noble Rot magazine or the Financial Times (loyal readers, be warned) – lends itself to leafing through a chapter here and there. It is, however, surprisingly easy to guzzle Keeling’s prose for an hour or two – especially with a glass in hand.
As unassuming as the writing is, this isn’t for the totally uninitiated, with some knowledge assumed (a very brief glossary exists, although it could further confuse a true novice). But those with a burgeoning love of wine will find that each chapter provides a tantalising taste of a given style, grape or region – with recommendations to explore beyond the book’s pages.
A guide on ‘How to buy great bottles’ is frustratingly limited; it would have been nice to see more recommendations with a single dollar sign next to them (versus two, three, four or five). Do I agree with everything in the book? No. But that’s not really the point. Overall, it’s witty, intelligent and – most importantly – leaves you gasping for a glass of something good.
• Who’s Afraid of Romanée-Conti? by Dan Keeling – £30 Quadrille, 2024
Travel tips
We tipped you off a couple of months ago about a new series of vinous travel guides, The Smart Traveller’s Wine Guide (Académie du Vin Library, £12.99 each) – the first two on Bordeaux (written by Decanter’s own Georgie Hindle) and Rioja (by Fintan Kerr). Judging by Kerr’s guide to Rioja, these look set to be indispensable. One of my favourite details is a ‘further reading’ section that includes literary recommendations, so you can really sink into the local culture. You’ll also find notes on when to go and where to stay and eat (including winemaker-endorsed eateries), alongside a solid guide to the region’s wines – grapes, styles and key producers, with bottles to look out for and wineries that are set up for tourism. Stock up and start planning your next trip.
Related articles
Books: The science of tasting wine
The best wine and spirits books of 2024
Wine books: Pour yourself a good read for summer
The post Books: A ‘genuinely joyous’ and irreverent new tome by Dan Keeling appeared first on Decanter.
Source : https://www.decanter.com/wine/books-a-genuinely-joyous-and-irreverent-new-tome-by-dan-keeling-550175/
