Nero d’Avola grapes at Bassham Wines, Riverland, Australia
How times change. On my first visit to Australia in 2002, the wine scene was dramatically different from 2025. Yes: the energy, dynamism and world-class wines were there, but the drivers of the industry were not the same as they are today.
‘In 2002, Australian viticulture was characterised by scale, innovation and market responsiveness rather than terroir-specific expression. Large vineyards, mechanisation and a focus on varietal labeling defined the industry,’ notes Matt Deller MW, winemaker and CEO of Wirra Wirra in McLaren Vale.
Wirra Wirra Vineyards in McLaren Vale
‘Regions like McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills were emerging as high-quality wine regions, but the focus remained on consistency and approachability over individual terroir,’ he adds.
Today, as Larry Cherubino notes in his recent interview with Peter Richards MW, ‘Australian wine has evolved. Now we’re selling dirt. We talk less and less about technique. It’s all about the vineyard these days’.
A sense of place
Deller points to what he describes as a ‘Burgundian evolution’ in McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills since the start of the millennium. ‘Inspired by Burgundy’s emphasis on place, winemakers have shifted toward smaller-scale, site-specific practices,’ he notes.
‘This evolution is reflected in the proliferation of single-vineyard wines and micro-parcel viticulture, as well as a greater focus on soil health and biodiversity,’ he continues. ‘For example, McLaren Vale’s diverse geologies, from sandy loams to ancient clays, now underpin blending decisions and vineyard management strategies.’
Wirra Wirra’s winery, where a minimal intervention ethos echoes Burgundy
Deller continues: ‘These shifts echo Burgundy’s ethos, blending modern science with traditional techniques like minimal intervention winemaking and natural fermentations.’
This changing approach has not been limited to South Australia. It can be seen across all of the country’s wine regions from the Hunter Valley in New South Wales to Western Australia’s Great Southern region.
The increased emphasis on expressing a sense of place is also clearly reflected in the shifting styles of Australia’s signature white and red grapes: Chardonnay and Shiraz.
Chardonnay
Wine Australia’s National Vintage Report for 2024 showed that more Chardonnay grapes had been crushed nationwide than any other variety. This was the first time in a decade that the white grape crush had surpassed red. A huge 332,643 tonnes of Chardonnay grapes were crushed, an increase of 31% since 2023.
Aussie Chardonnay first won the hearts of drinkers in the 1990s with its ripe, oaked ‘sunshine in a bottle’ styles. As tastes changed and those wines fell out of fashion, many producers swung to the opposite extreme, producing lean, lower-alcohol versions that were over-worked in the winery.
Today, as Ned Goodwin MW pointed out in his Decanter column, ‘In pursuit of regional identity in Australian Chardonnay’, the emphasis has shifted yet again. The result of that shift is wines that are made more in the vineyard than in the winery, with the aim of reflecting Australia’s diverse regionality.
Chardonnay vines at Tolpuddle Vineyard in Tasmania Credit: Julie Sheppard
Cooler regions are leading the way. Look for top producers in Beechworth, Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, the Macedon Ranges, Geelong and Gippsland in Victoria. Plus Tasmania, Adelaide Hills in South Australia and Western Australia’s Margaret River.
In Decanter’s first-ever Margaret River Vintage Report last year, Cassandra Charlick highlighted the stellar 2022 Chardonnay vintage. If you’re still not convinced that Australian Chardonnay deserves its place on a global stage, simply seek out one of her top recommendations.
Shiraz
Although it has lost ground to Chardonnay in terms of crush size, Shiraz remains Australia’s most-planted red variety ahead of…
Source : https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/australian-wine-a-snapshot-for-2025-548870/
