The 14th-century Torre Guinigi rises above the historic centre of Lucca in northern Tuscany.
The dynamism of Lucca’s wineries has exerted an important influence on the region’s gastronomic scene, such that today, Lucca and its renowned ‘sea extension’ – the Versilia sandy-beach coastal stretch of Viareggio up to Forte dei Marmi – are at the forefront of the Italian culinary panorama. There are 10 Michelin-star restaurants in the area, eight of which are located along a short 12km stretch of coast – a brilliant alignment! – while the other two are Butterfly, on the plain of Lucca, and Giglio, within Lucca’s imposing 4km-long Renaissance city walls.
Nestled in a fertile plain of northern Tuscany, Lucca appears to the traveller like a mirage. An ancient settlement of Etruscan origins, the city gained importance as a Roman colony due to its strategic position in the north of the Italian peninsula. The city stands on the ‘olive border’, which in the past marked the northern edge of Mediterranean civilisation. For the Romans, defending Luca (as it was known in the Roman era) meant defending the empire.
In the Middle Ages, Lucca became a republic and grew prosperous thanks to the production of, and trade in, silk. The historic centre was enriched with palaces and churches. Among the latter, San Martino cathedral and San Frediano basilica are worth a visit.
Following the silk thread, local wine and oil reached the most important European markets. In the 16th century, when the silk trade went into crisis, the noble families of Lucca invested their enormous wealth in the countryside, giving rise to the model of the villa-farm.
Prime location
From the city’s bastions, which today host alleys and gardens, one’s gaze is directed towards the Lucca hills, which are well suited to viticulture. The most prestigious area is Valgiano, located northeast of the city. In the early 2000s, Tenuta di Valgiano turned the spotlight on this corner of Tuscany by focusing on organic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking, and involving other local wineries in LuccaBiodinamica – an initiative set up in 2016 to promote biodynamic methods that now includes 16 members. The winery’s decision to combine native vines, mainly Sangiovese, with international ones – Merlot and Syrah, introduced by the French troops who brought an end to the Republic of Lucca in 1799 – proved to be a winning one: the Tenuta di Valgiano Colline Lucchesi Rosso, a vortex of power and elegance in which these grape varieties are blended, is the manifesto of the small Colline Lucchesi DOC just to the northeast of Pisa.
A tour of the local wineries includes Malgiacca, Macea and Podere Còncori, the latter perched amid the rugged terrain of the Garfagnana region, about 35km north of Lucca city. In the wider Lucca municipal area, Fabbrica di San Martino, Fattoria Sardi and the farm cooperatives Calafata and Pieve Santo Stefano are also worth a visit.
The symbolic dishes of Lucca are garmugia (a spring soup based on vegetables with the addition of bacon), tordelli al ragù (fresh pasta filled with pork and beef, soaked bread, cheese and eggs) and rovellina (breaded and fried slices of beef cooked in a tomato and caper sauce). Among the seafood ingredients, anchovies and cod stand out. Don’t miss tasting the buccellato, a typical sweet bread with anise and raisins.
What time of year should you discover Lucca? Any season is good, but summer, due to the attraction of the nearby beaches and the many events, including the Lucca Summer Festival and the Puccini Festival, is probably the best time.
My top 10 in Lucca
1. Al Tambellini dal 1870
Via di Sant’Alessio, 1403
Al Tambellini dal 1870 is a testament to Lucca’s culinary tradition. Credit: Toscana Secrets
This restaurant, located in a former post station and horse stable on the outskirts of Lucca, boasts a century and a half of history. Managed by the Tambellini family, it offers the entire recipe…
Source : https://www.decanter.com/learn/food/lucca-10-must-visits-for-food-and-wine-lovers-540870/
