Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This past week included a trio of nice white wines from Northern California, beginning with the lean, snappy Sauvignon Blanc from Stewart Cellars. Picked early in a chilly vintage, this wine has a lot of edge to it, so if you appreciate acidity, it might be a good bet for you.
I love wine projects that have focus. John Skupny and his wife Tracey have been making Loire-inspired Cabernet Franc and Chenin in Napa and across the North Coast for decades under their Lang & Reed label. The winemaking is now a joint affair between John and his son Reed, and they continue to make excellent wines, including the floral and bright Mendocino Chenin Blanc they sent this week, as well as their entry-level Cabernet Franc which you can find a bit farther down the page.
Lastly the Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay that Auteur recently sent along was quite nervy and bright, leaning towards Chablis more than California if you get my meaning, though it has a keen acidic edge to it that you don’t get that often in Chablis these days. I enjoyed the wine, as well as the two single-vineyard Pinot Noirs that Auteur sent along as well.
This week featured an interesting selection of Nebbiolo from northern Italy, across both Piedmont and Lombardy. The Vietti Perbacco Langhe Nebbiolo, which I often find to be a generous, approachable wine, was surprisingly tight, but will doubtless relax with some time. The Tenuta Scerscé Valtellina Superiore Valgella was savory and herbal, with a hint of reduction and the powdery tannins that sometimes accompany alpine Nebbiolo.
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy is a mouthful (both literally and figuratively) so most people just say Marchesi di Gresy when they’re referring to this producer with four separate estates in the Piedmont region of Italy. Their Martinenga Barbaresco comes from their Martinenga estate which has been in their family’s hands since 1797. It is lovely and ethereal with great balance and brightness.
Perla Terra is a new brand developed by storied importer Dalla Terra in collaboration with a number of smaller producers in Piedmont. Made from purchased fruit, it is designed to be an attractively priced entry into the Barolo category. The 2019 Perla Terra Barolo is tight and needs time, but will hopefully open up with some years in the bottle.
My favorite of the Nebbiolos I received this week was the Enrico Serafino Monclivio Barolo. The Serafino family has been making wine in Piedmont since 1878, and this bottling is their classic Barolo crafted from several plots in the Serralunga area. It is broad and generous, with a great balance between fruit, herbs, and spices. It will improve with age, of course, but (with a decent decanting) proves quite attractive even in its youth.
Finally, I’ve got two more wines from Stewart Cellars in Napa — their standard Cabernet Sauvignon, which I enjoyed, but not as much as I enjoyed their “Tartan” red blend that seems to have more dynamism and balance to it. I just wish the winery would get with the program and lose their nasty heavy bottles in favor of something more environmentally friendly.
Notes on all these below!
Tasting Notes
2023 Stewart Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville, Napa, California
Palest straw in color, this wine smells of green apple and a touch of alfalfa. In the mouth, tart green apple flavors mix with celery and a little bit of passionfruit as lean, zippy acidity keeps things fresh and bright. There’s just the faintest vegetal edge to this wine. 12.9% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $38. click to buy.
2023 Lang & Reed Chenin Blanc, Mendocino, California
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of poached pear and pastry cream. In…
Source : https://www.vinography.com/2024/11/vinography-unboxed-week-of-11-24-24
