The Tenuta Frecciarossa estate, southeast of Casteggio, where self-sufficiency is the goal.
It’s a wine lover’s dream. Oltrepò Pavese, in southern Lombardy, has a fascinating hilly landscape, a mosaic of vineyards contoured by woodland, a sprinkling of castles and stone villages, and an intriguing variety of wineries making diverse wines. Pretty much undiscovered by tourism, it’s home to some of Italy’s most highly regarded Riesling and Pinot Nero (the latter in versions ranging from bone-dry DOCG spumante to riserva) alongside enticing local varieties such as the vibrant, juicy red Croatina.
The signs are there: Oltrepò Pavese is on the so-called ‘45th parallel’ (the imaginary line halfway between the equator and the North Pole that also includes Bordeaux, the northern Rhône and Piedmont) and on the map the area even resembles a bunch of grapes. This wedge of land is bordered by Piedmont, Liguria and Emilia Romagna, and takes influences from each. It starts on the plains south of the Po river (Oltrepò Pavese means ‘Pavia’s lands beyond the Po’) and stretches southwards, rising up to a lofty 1,725m above sea level.
The Oltrepò hills enjoy regular breezes – essential for protecting delicate Pinot Nero grapes from humidity – and considerable day-night temperature swings which help to develop the elegant aromas that winemakers strive for. According to regional figures, there are about 3,000ha of Pinot Nero planted, and production of this variety in Oltrepò Pavese represents 75% of Italy’s national output.
Credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd
Family background
Pinot Nero was first planted here in the mid-19th century by Conte Vistarino, great-great-grandfather of the eponymous estate’s current owner Ottavia, one of many dynamic younger-generation producers now running Oltrepò wineries. She recognises the importance of her 300ha of woodland with its richness of biodiversity. Investments at the vast 826ha estate (102ha under vine), east of Montalto Pavese, include eco-friendly cellar technology and downsized wine production focusing on quality. Traditional-method/metodo classico sparkling expressions have always taken centre-stage here, and in addition to sparkling wines such as the lemon-fresh, 60 month matured 100% Pinot Nero 1865, the estate produces a wide range of still wines including three Pinot Nero riserva crus (among them the DWWA 2024 Silver medal-winner Pernice 2020) and expressive Riesling from vines on chalky terrain.
The great variety of soils is key to the quality and character of Oltrepò wines. Even on small estates, winemakers are able to select grapes from vines planted on clay, sand, chalk or gravel-based soils on north- or south-facing plots. ‘We have lots of fun here,’ confirms Giulio Fiamberti with characteristic enthusiasm.
Entertaining tours await at the historic family winery of Giulio Fiamberti in Canneto Pavese, near Broni
His tours are fun, too, with barrel tastings and impromptu blends. Fiamberti’s family has been producing wine for more than 200 years in the picturesque hills of Canneto Pavese, where slopes can be challengingly steep. This spot is home to Buttafuoco DOC – a rich, spicy, fruit-filled red made principally with Croatina and Barbera, plus Uva Rara and Vespolina (locally known as Ughetta) – and the still, frizzante and spumante Sangue di Giuda DOC sweet reds from the same varieties. The Buttafuoco Storico association, created in 1996 to uphold classic versions of Buttafuoco, such as Fiamberti’s Vigna Solenga, has a self-imposed protocol calling for three-year ageing and single-vineyard field blends of the traditional grapes.
Innovative thinking
At the eastern edge of Oltrepò Pavese, Alessio Brandolini was the first to produce metodo classico sparkling Pinot Nero at his family winery near San Damiano al Colle, making deliciously versatile rosé and white versions. As Brandolini explains: ‘Throughout Oltrepò Pavese, spumante is made with very…
Source : https://www.decanter.com.master.public.keystone-prod-eks-euw1.futureplc.engineering/magazine/oltrepo-pavese-a-wine-lovers-guide-541064/
