Black Stallion winery in the Napa Valley.
Drawing on fruit from more than 15 different vineyards across Napa Valley, Black Stallion winery has its ‘pick of the litter’ when it comes to selecting unique vineyard parcels intended for its small-lot ‘Limited Release’ tier labels — generally a few hundred cases of each wine at most, though a bit more for the Cabernet and Chardonnay.
With such a diversity of terroirs to choose from, ‘We make our Limited Release tier wines to showcase an outstanding vineyard or a more unusual grape variety,’ explains director of winemaking Ralf Holdenried. ‘These wines are like a kaleidoscope showing different facets of special terroirs’.
Most Limited Release wines are unavailable in the market but are offered directly from the winery, such as their Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo and Rosé. However, the Limited Release Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah wines are available through select retailers and a few export markets internationally.
Black Stallion’s director of winemaking, Ralf Holdenried.
Drawing out authenticity
Holdenried says that the style of these Limited Release wines has evolved toward a more authentic expression of the vineyards. ‘Our goal has always been to make authentic wines of place’, he says, ‘to channel Napa Valley in a glass. I think we’ve gotten a little better with every vintage’.
Sometimes that has meant dialling in precision through specialised equipment, such as optical sorting, which was introduced in the early 2020s. In some cases, it has meant backing off and doing less. ‘I think our Cabernets today, for example, are less extracted, and we’ve refined our oak programme as well. While the style is consistent, the wines we’re making today offer more finesse, with more polished tannins and brighter, juicier fruit’.
The biggest shifts have been taking a hands-off, low-intervention approach in the winery. ‘We’re letting some fermentations start naturally, instead of inoculating with commercial yeasts right away’, says Holdenried, who believes the wild fermentations of the vineyards’ native yeasts have contributed more flavour complexity and showed greater terroir expression. ‘It’s clear that the unique biodiversity to each vineyard helps to make wines that more fully reflect the character of the vineyards they come from’.
Further improvements are marked by how colour and flavour extraction of red wine grapes is managed — these days, the process begins with a few days of cold soaking, followed by increasing the temperature to around 29.4°C. ‘It’s helped us achieve optimal fruit expression and silkier tannins. We follow this by moving the young wines quickly to oak barrels to help the oak flavours integrate seamlessly into the wines’.
Tasting notes and scores for Black Stallion Estate’s Limited Release from Jonathan Cristaldi
Black Stallion, Limited Release Los Carneros Chardonnay, Napa Valley, USA 2021
From the Poseidon Vineyard in Los Carneros, where the Carneros Creek and Napa River converge, cool, foggy mornings are followed by warm days. Aged for nine months in mostly new French oak, this is a ripe, unapologetically toasty and buttery Chardonnay. On the nose, it exudes expressive notes of bruised apple, caramel and indulgent baking spices. Full-bodied on the palate, rich flavours of toffee and crème brûlée decadence meet caramelised apple and pear. Alc 14.5%. 91 points.
Black Stallion, Limited Release Los Carneros Chardonnay, Napa Valley, USA 2022
From Carneros, crafted with grapes from Poseidon and Alta Vita vineyards, this wine spends eight months in 50% new French oak, with some Hungarian oak, imparting a distinctive candied ginger note. Whole cluster pressing is employed, with a press cut to ensure only the best juice is used, while the harder press goes into a different blend. Native fermentation is encouraged whenever possible. Barrel fermented with 100% malolactic fermentation, the wine is…
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