Wine cellar of Helan Qingxue, Ningxia
When Helan Qingxue’s 2009 Jia Bei Lan Cabernet Sauvignon from Ningxia won an International Trophy (equivalent to today’s Best in Show) at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards, the unprecedented achievement for a Chinese wine shook the grape world to its very tendril. Since then, millions of bottles of Chinese wine have been opened and savoured. No one is surprised anymore when a wine from China strikes gold. That really has been the best news for the country’s wine industry. Bordeaux blends still rule, but the diversity is increasing. Changyu’s Longyu Estate, for instance, pioneered a Blanc de Noir Cabernet Sauvignon. China is also trialling varietal Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc – Grace Vineyard’s Tasya’s Reserve Cabernet Franc is a worthy example. Chardonnays have become less oaked and more tensioned. Helan Qingxue’s Jia Bei Lan Chardonnay (not the Reserve) reminds of Chablis, while Silver Heights’ Reserve and Chateau Changyu Afip’s example reveal citrus fruit and vanilla wrapped in freshness.
After years of turning out oaky Marselan – trying to be more Cabernet than Cabernet – many of today’s Chinese Marselans exude violet notes, silky tannins and deep, dark berry fruit, now taking more after its Grenache parent (Marselan is a crossing of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon). Helan Qingxue’s Jia Bei Lan Baby Feet Marselan (with no new oak) is a reference. So too is Tiansai’s Selection Marselan, particularly the 2017 vintage. Syrah is also enjoying a honeymoon period with some Chinese vignerons, beguiling wine lovers with succulent fruit and supple tannins. Copower Jade’s Fei Tswei Reserve Syrah ticks all those boxes.
Kuerdening vineyard in winter. Silk Road Vineyards, Yili, Xinjiang.
China also produces salivating, tingling Rieslings. The grape is a natural pairing for Chinese seafood dishes. Silkroad makes pristine, zesty thirst-quenchers. In Northeastern China (north of North Korea), bracing winters mean the province of Liaoning produces ice wine as effortlessly as in Ontario, Canada, 9,000km away. Sanhe’s Cailonglin Jinding Icewine is intense and beautifully persistent. In January 2023, at Château Beychevelle, a fourth-growth estate in Bordeaux’s St-Julien appellation, I invited nine Chinese wineries to show their wines to 30 of Bordeaux’s most important winemakers and wine owners. Then, in July 2024, I invited nine Chinese wineries to pour their wines in Tokyo to some of Japan’s top wine distributors, journalists, educators, influencers, restaurant owners, drinks executives and sommeliers. Domaine de Long Dai, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR) Lafite’s property in Shandong’s Qiu Shan Valley, was present at both tastings.
Saskia de Rothschild, DBR’s executive chairwoman, and I will soon present its wines again, alongside Château Lafite, at the inaugural Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in Singapore on 26 October. It’s a vote of confidence for China’s terroir and what its wine producers can bring to the world. Read on for reviews of 14 Chinese wines that won Silver (90 points) and above at the Decanter World Wine Awards since 2019.
Chinese wines from six regions to try
Devo Winery, MV02 Brut, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV
2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Silver – 91pts
DWWA notes: Traditional-method sparkling aged on lees for 36 months. Broad aromas of citrus peel, pineapple, yeast and fresh butter. Refreshing acidity, full-bodied. Grapes: Chardonnay 50%, Pinot Noir 50%. Alc: 12.5%
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Trade contact: [email protected]; +86 15088602446 (Ning Ma)
Stockists: Chang Kuang Trading Co Ltd (Japan), BC Selections SA (Mexico). Seeking representation in UK
Chateau Changyu Afip, A8 Chardonnay, Miyun, Beijing 2019
The 2018 vintage won 2021 DWWA Platinum – 97pts
Tasted by CH’NG Poh Tiong (CPT), DWWA Regional Chair for Asia: Aromas of vanilla and toasty oak, reinforced by lemon-lime fruit on the medium-bodied…
Source : https://www.decanter.com.master.public.keystone-prod-eks-euw1.futureplc.engineering/sponsored/savour-the-diversity-of-chinese-wines-540724/
