The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Daltôn Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon. As tractors rolled through the vineyards at night, collecting the last of the Cabernet grapes, the sky was lit up by the glow of exploding rockets and the resulting wildfires that have scorched parts of northern Israel since Hezbollah’s campaign began on Oct. 8 of last year.
Across Israel, Lebanon and the West Bank, the growing conflict ignited by Hamas’ attacks one year ago on Oct. 7, 2023, has upended winemakers’ livelihoods and lives throughout the region. Harvest is traditionally a time of hard work and celebration. But as the military campaign in Gaza continues, Israel and Hezbollah trade fire and Iran launches missile attacks, vintners on all sides are simply trying to survive and protect what they have spent a lifetime building. Grapes are being harvested, but so is sorrow.
Evacuated Vineyards and Villages in Galilee
Located in Israel’s Upper Galilee region, the Daltôn winery is just a few miles from Lebanon, and some of owner Alex Haruni’s most northern vineyards nearly touch the border fence. Hezbollah fighters can often be seen on the other side. Some of Daltôn’s prime vineyards have been completely destroyed by blasts or fire. Like many winegrowers operating in the region, Haruni was forced to abandon others, as they are located in zones the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) have deemed unsafe. With more than 70,000 civilians evacuated from Israel’s Golan and Galilee regions—where 40 percent of the country’s wine production takes place—the entire northern swath of the country sits empty, populated only by IDF soldiers.
Since harvest ended in late September, Hezbollah’s attacks have increased in intensity. “We now have to run for shelter more frequently than before and the most nerve-wracking part of the day is the drive to and from work when the smell of smoke and cordite hang pervasively in the air,” Haruni says. Everyday he prepares the winery, “as if I’m not coming back tomorrow.”
He’s not alone—and considers himself lucky by comparison. In March, the nearby Avivim Winery was destroyed by two Hezbollah rockets and owner Shlomi Biton was injured. Galil Mountain Winery, situated just 200 yards from the Lebanese border, has had many of its vineyards destroyed by rocket fire. Most days winemaker David Bar Ilan and his team are unable to access his vines, as they are in closed military zones. The forced evacuations mean that most wineries had few workers available.
Palestinian Wineries Struggle Economically
While not under a constant rain of rocket fire, the handful of wineries in the Palestinian territory of the West Bank have also been suffering since the war began. The Christian communities between Bethlehem and Jerusalem have a long tradition of wine production.
Located in the Salesian Monastery on the outskirts of Bethlehem, Cremisan Winery has been producing wine since 1885, now with guidance from famed Italian winemaking consultant Riccardo Cotarella. Head winemaker Fadi Batarseh has been a pioneer in the resurrection of grapes native to the region, varieties such as Baladi, Dabouki and Hamandi.
The West Bank has never been an easy place to make and sell wine, says Batarseh, but the last year has been devastating on every level. “I can’t even call this a harvest—we only have 30 tons of fruit compared to our usual 250 tons.” Batarseh had just completed harvest in 2023 when Hamas attacked Israel from Gaza and the war began—and everything shut down. It’s been difficult and often impossible for many Palestinian farmers to reach their vines or olive trees for harvest because of military road closures and added checkpoints. But the bigger challenge has been an inability to sell wine, he says.
“There are virtually no sales—most of our clients are tourists and…
Source : https://www.winespectator.com/articles/middle-east-winemakers-persevere-during-war
