Bodegas LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2017 $28 (92 points)

Elegant and aromatic, with detailed hints of star anise, dried thyme and mocha winding through the core of ripe black cherry and boysenberry fruit. Fine-grained tannins are well-meshed and lightly chalky in texture, emerging to firm the focused finish. Tempranillo and Graciano. Drink now through 2030. 29,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.

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