Muscat sign in vineyard Rutherglen Australia
‘We’re about to celebrate 150 years of continuous family ownership.’ says Wendy Killeen of Stanton & Killeen, a lauded Rutherglen producer spanning seven generations. ‘We’re one of three continuous historical family operations in the region.’
It’s a mild summer’s day in northeast Victoria, and the region’s putting on a superb showing of crisp blue skies and slow bucolic charm reminiscent of a bygone era.
In fact, walking into most Rutherglen barrel rooms brings the eerie, all-consuming feeling that you’ve stepped back in time. Dust dances in the dim, dappled light filtering down from the old, low tin-shed roofs.
Rows of elderly oak barrels sit stoic, proud and dutiful. They exude the haunting presence that can only come from having weathered world wars, livelihood-draining drought, the great depression and devastating floods, to name a few.
In these cellars, the digital age feels like a distant, whimsical dream you suddenly can’t recall. Or perhaps you don’t want to, for risk of cooling the warm nostalgia. All of this raises a niggling question, however – has much changed over 170-odd years of Rutherglen wine?
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 wines from Rutherglen
Going for gold
The Victorian gold rush brought an avalanche of wealth to the Australian economy in the 1850s and 1860s. And when prospectors struck gold at a site in northeast Victoria in September 1860, the town that became Rutherglen was set up almost overnight.
A frenzied mass of wealth-hunting workers descended on the area and, only one month later, there were 40 stores and dozens of makeshift pubs sprawled across the goldfields.
One man, however, had previously discovered a different type of gold; one that was hidden in plain sight – the mineral rich red loam over clay.
Lindsay Brown planted Rutherglen’s first 1.6ha of vines in 1851; thus he is referred to as the father of the Rutherglen wine industry.
He’s credited with the enduring quote: ‘Dig gentleman dig, but no deeper than six inches, for there is more gold to be won from the top six inches than from all of the depths below.’
Land and climate
The traditional home of the Yorta Yorta people, Rutherglen is located 296 kilometres northeast of Melbourne, Victoria. The region is 998 km2 with a total of 781 hectares under vine and around 20 wineries.
Being in Victoria’s far northeast, Australia’s longest river, the Murray River, forms the border to New South Wales and to the region itself.
Rutherglen boasts a continental climate with warm, sunny days, and cool nights thanks to airflow from the nearby Victorian Alps. All of this makes for long, dry growing seasons resulting in wines of intensity, richness, and concentration.
This is quintessential Australian farmland; arid and sprawling, dusty and uncompromising. A vast, dry expanse of paddock and gum. Yet, punctuating this harsh terrain is lush green vineyard oases responsible for some of the most unique wines in the world.
‘Rutherglen’s unique selling point is our world-class fortified wines,’ says winemaker Jen Pfeiffer of Pfeiffer Wines. ‘Specifically, Rutherglen Topaque and Rutherglen Muscat. These wines are not only unique to Australia, but they are unique to Rutherglen, and attract attention on a world stage.’
Vineyards at Pfeiffer Wines
Rutherglen fortified style guide
Muscat
Grape variety: Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge
Typical aromas: orange blossom, espresso, Turkish Delight, nuts, toffee, dark chocolate, Christmas spice, rose hip, raisins
Typical flavours: Raisin, dried fig, roasted nuts, Christmas spice, toffee, salted caramel, dark chocolate, molasses
Sweetness: high
Alcohol: usually around 18%
Classification system: Rutherglen Muscat is classified using a tiered system that indicates the wine’s level of complexity. In order of lowest to highest, the tiers are Rutherglen Muscat, Classic Rutherglen Muscat, Grand Rutherglen Muscat and Rare…
Source : https://www.decanter.com/premium/regional-profile-celebrating-rutherglens-liquid-gold-532361/
