Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This past week included an oak-aged Fumé-Blanc-style Sauvignon Blanc from Merriam Vineyards in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. It’s typical of the California barrel-aged style, and will satisfy those who enjoy wood on their Sauvignon Blancs.
I also got a few new wines from Troon Vineyard up in Oregon’s Applegate Valley. My favorite of the three wines was undoubtedly their Grenache Blanc, which is just bursting with acidity and bright greenish fruit. I adore the grape variety and this is an excellent rendition of all its charms. Troon has also made a new rosé that is designed for ageworthiness, and leans decidedly savory. Lastly, their glou-glou red wine is in its typical earthy, berry form as well.
Francis Ford Coppola has been an established name in the California wine industry for a long time, but in 2019 he bought a property in Oregon that he has named Domaine Lumineux. I tasted his latest Pinot Noir this week, and found it supple and somewhat evolved, but fairly tasty.
Tolosa Winery has an interesting history. It’s where owner Robin Baggett got his start in wine in 1998, but not where he made his name. Baggett is far better known for being the co-proprietor (along with his wife Michelle) of Alpha Omega winery in Napa. Tolosa has been undergoing something of a transformation over the last few years, and I was pleased to get a chance to taste some of their latest releases, including their estate Pinot Noir, which is excellent, and their “Primera” Pinot Noir from the Edna Ranch vineyard, which is lovely, except for the ridiculous, planet-killing heavy bottle it comes in. As if the bottle isn’t heavy enough, the winery glues a metal badge to the front of it. This kind of ostentatious, ego-driven, we-must-seem-luxury packaging needs to die. The Tolosa Grenache (which I can find no trace of on their website) is also quite tasty.
Last, but not least, I tasted two Pinot Noirs from Eden Rift Vineyards, which are the best I’ve tasted from that estate. The cooler 2021 vintage yielded some truly lovely, energetic, dynamic, and nuanced wines at Eden Rift. Both the regular estate Pinot Noir and the Reserve are excellent and worth seeking out.
Notes on all these below!
Tasting Notes
2022 Merriam Vineyards “Fumé Blanc – Eastside Estate” Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of candied lemon and new oak. In the mouth, lemon pith and lemon peel flavors mix with a hint of apple and the vanilla of oak. Toasted oak notes linger in the finish. Very good acidity. Aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak. 13.8% alcohol. 175 cases made. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $42.
2022 Troon Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of sweet lemon cucumber and green melon. In the mouth, green apple, green melon, lime, and grapefruit flavors are fantastically bright with juicy acidity that leaves the mouth tingling. Notes of green herbs and melon linger in a long finish. Electric and delicious. Spent 17 months in barrel on the lees before bottling unfined and unfiltered. 12.6% alcohol. Demeter Certified Biodynamic. Regenerative Organic Gold Certified. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $40. click to buy.
2023 Troon Vineyard “Ascendant Rosé” Red Blend, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon
Palest peach colored in the glass, this wine smells of dried herbs, orange peel, and flowers. In the mouth, bright and savory flavors of citrus peel, rosehips, and pears, mix with faintest hint of acidophilus. Lightly salty and very interesting. Very good acidity. A blend of 38% Cinsault, 33% Mourvedre, 11% Grenache, 10%…
Source : https://www.vinography.com/2024/07/vinography-unboxed-week-of-7-7-24
