They say that farming is a profession of hope. It takes a particular constitution to persist in a livelihood that in the age of climate chaos can seem like an endless battle against adversity. But how much more hope is required when the grape that you’re growing persists in being one of the hardest to sell in the market? Thankfully, the growers in New York’s Finger Lakes region have steadfastly soldiered on, with increasingly impressive results.
This month I’m taking a deep dive into the Rieslings grown around Seneca Lake, one of the 11 glacier-carved lakes in west-central New York State that make up the Finger Lakes wine region, and one of only two that have been given their own American Viticultural Areas within the larger Finger Lakes appellation (the other being Cayuga Lake).
Seneca Lake hosts the largest concentration of resident wineries (59) in the expansive Finger Lakes region, which covers a swathe of New York stretching from Rochester in the west to Syracuse in the east, a total of more than 4,000 square miles (10,360 km2). Seneca Lake is also home to the most vineyards in the region, with more than 3,700 planted acres (1,500 ha).
The Finger Lakes have a long history of growing grapes stretching back to the mid 1800s, with the first winery in the region established in 1860. Then, as now, growers depended upon the moderating effects of the deep lakes that rarely freeze during the winters, keeping surrounding temperatures measurably (1.1–1.4 °C/2–2.5 °F) warmer in the very cold winters, and slightly cooler in the hot and humid summers. The lakes also prove a convenient place to store the (sometimes substantial) amounts of rain and snow that vineyard soils can’t absorb.
Continue reading this article on JancisRobinson.Com
This article teases my monthly column at JancisRobinson.Com, which is available only to subscribers of her website. If you’re not familiar with the site, I urge you to give it a try. It’s only £8.50 a month or £85 per year ($11/mo or $111 a year for you Americans) and well worth the cost, especially considering you basically get free, searchable access to the Oxford Companion to Wine ($65) and maps from the World Atlas of Wine ($50) as part of the subscription costs. Click here to sign up.
The post Seneca Lake’s Riesling Apotheosis appeared first on Vinography.
Source : https://www.vinography.com/2023/10/seneca-lakes-riesling-apotheosis