Koncho & Co: A Georgian Winery Transformed from Soviet Times

[Credit DWinkler]

The Koncho & Co winery was originally founded in 1737 on the left side of the Alazani River in Kakheti at about 405m elevation.  Located next to a 17th century fortress near the town of Kvareli, it became one of the large state wineries during Soviet times, and one still finds large metal horizontal tanks with enamel interior that are still used for storing wine (shown here). Called Red Cellars under Soviet occupation, it was one of the first wineries to be privatized and become independent.   Today its 180 hectare vineyard produces about 200 thousand cases of wine; about 8% is made in its 57 qvevris, each of which holds up to 2 thousand liters.  We visited Koncho & Co and tasted wines with wine director Nugzar Ksovreli, a graduate of Geisenheim, late last year.

GEO Tamaz Kontschoshvili, Founder of JSC Corporation Kindzmarauli, & the Author

In 2001, Tamaz Konchoshvili founded (and still manages) the Corporation Kindzmarauli that owns the winery that includes Koncho & Co, a boutique winery within the larger, commercial winery.  It sources its grapes from the best vineyards with rich black schist soils over limestone bedrock owned by the corporation.   The traditional wine of the region is the off-dry red wine Kindzmaralui; today, both modern (European) and qvevri wines are produced here. Overall, the Koncho & Co wines are well made and delicious.

US Importer: Qvevri Wine Georgia

Alexsandrouli

Alexandrouli in Modern & Qvevri Styles

The Alexsandrouli grape originates in Racha in Western Georgia where it’s typically made into a semi-sweet red wine called Khvanchkara; Corporation Kindzmarauli grows it in Kakheti and makes both a European style and qvevri wine from it.

Koncho & Co 2020 Alexsandrouli Kakheti 91 This is a lively, dry wine made in the modern style. Medium ruby red in color, it offers appealing fresh red cherry fruit with red berry and light herbal notes. It’s soft on entry with nicely concentrated fruit and good acidity. A very pleasant and easy drinking light red wine. A blend of 85% Alexsandrouli and 15% Mujuretuli fermented with commercial yeast and matured 12 months in oak. 13% alc.

Koncho & Co 2019 Alexsandrouli Qvevri Kakheti 90  This wine is Alexsandrouli from the same vineyard of 25 year old vines but made in qvevri and from a vintage one year earlier. Native fermented, it spends 7 months on the stems and skins after which it’s aged in large oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. It’s more earthy and tannic than the wine made in stainless steel, showing earthy red fruit and tobacco scents. It’s dry on the attack and more earthy and lightly astringent on the palate. 14% alc.

Mtsivivani Kakhuri

The Mtsivivani Kakhuri is a rare grape originally from this area.  According to the winery, it was rediscovered on its property and has since been replanted.  It’s not clear what is the relationship between this variety and the well known Mtsvane Kakhuri.

Modern & Qvevri Bottlings [Credit: DWinkler]

Koncho & Co 2019 Mtsvivani Kakhuri Kakheti  90  Pale straw color. This fresh and fragrant wine is made from the rare Mtsvivani Kakuhri grape in the modern, European style. Opening with bright tropical citrus nose, it’s soft on the palate with good acidity. An appealing, easy drinking wine made from young vines, fermented in stainless steel and aged in oak. 13.5% alc.

Koncho & Co 2018 Mtsvivani Kakhuri Qvevri Kakheti ($28) 91 Amber-tinged gold. Caramel scents are joined by a note of orange marmalade on the nose. Soft on the attack and creamy in the mouth with complex notes of dried yellow peach and butterscotch. Finishes with round, ripe tannins. Sourced from the same vineyard as the regular Mtsvivani Kakhuri, fermented and aged 7 months with all the skins and stems in qvevri after which it’s aged in 500 hl old barrels. 13% alc.

Saperavi

Saperavi Premium & Special Reserve [Credit: DWinkler]

Koncho & Co 2020 Saperavi Premium Kakheti ($28) 91 This is the winery’s bestbest-selling wine, especially in Germany. It offers toasted oak and dark red fruit aromas. The mouth feel is sensuous and silky with fresh, dense dark red cherry/berry fruit accented by vanilla oak. Especially delicious to those who like well oaked wines. Sourced from 60-year-old vines grown in the schist soils of the Khelilbardebi vineyard, made using modern techniques, and aged 18 months in oak barrels. 13% alc.

Koncho & Co 2016 Saperavi Kvareli Special Reserve Kakheti ($85) 93  Notes of black cherries, cassis and tobacco on a complex nose. Silky with excellent depth of flavor and layers of blackberries, cherries, black tea, and loamy earth, finishing with dry tannins; beautifully integrated oak. Should be decanted well before serving. A complex, rich wine for meat dishes. Made from 60-year-old vines where fruit has been dropped to limit yields, which are 4.5 tons/ha; fermented and aged 4 years in 50% new French barriques. 14.5% alc.


Source : https://i-winereview.com/blog/index.php/2024/02/13/koncho-co-a-georgian-winery-transformed-from-soviet-times/

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