Gérard Bertrand Vin de France White Orange Gold 2021 $25 (89 points)


An outlier in style, but in a good way. Golden in color and more savory than fruit-driven, with crushed apple layered with herbal tea, salted brioche and mint. A subtle tug of tannins firms and dries the finish, which is marked by a bitter quinine bite. Chardonnay, Muscat, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2026. 10,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.


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